Hair shaping process using fatty substances, non-silicone polymers or surfactants

ABSTRACT

The invention relates to a cosmetic process for treating keratin fibers, preferably the hair, comprising at least the steps consisting in:
         a) applying to said keratin fibers a composition containing at least one substance chosen from fatty substances, non-silicone polymers and surfactants,   b) applying a mechanical tension to said keratin fibers, and   c) exposing said keratin fibers under mechanical tension to microwaves, at a pressure ranging from 50 000 to 250 000 Pa, in the presence of at least one solvent in vapor form on contact with the keratin fibers and without there being complete drying of the keratin fibers throughout the entire exposure to the microwaves,   the solvent(s) in vapor form being entirely generated by evaporating at least one compound present, before emission of the microwaves, on contact with the keratin fibers,   step a) taking place prior to step c).

CROSS-REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS

This application is a divisional of U.S. application Ser. No. 14/406,056filed Dec. 5, 2014, allowed and pending, which is a U.S. National Stageof PCT/IB13/54655 filed Jun. 6, 2013 and claims the benefit of U.S.61/701,650 filed Sep. 15, 2012, U.S. 61/701,648 filed Sep. 15, 2012,U.S. 61/701,649 filed Sep. 15, 2012, FR. 1255310 filed Jun. 7, 2012, FR1255309 filed Jun. 7, 2012, and FR1255307 filed Jun. 7, 2012.

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to the field of processes for treatingkeratin fibers, preferably the hair.

BACKGROUND

Cosmetic treatments for long-lasting shaping of the hair are mainlyperformed using chemical products.

Two techniques, both based on cleavage of the —S—S— disulfide bondspresent in keratin (cystine) are generally used for obtaining permanentreshaping of the hair.

The first technique includes a first step that consists in opening thedisulfide bonds using a composition comprising a reducing agent, forexample of thioglycolic acid type. This first reduction step isgenerally performed at a pH of between 8 and 9.

This first technique then involves, preferably after rinsing the hair, asecond step that consists in reconstituting the disulfide bonds byapplying to the hair an oxidizing composition known as a fixer. The hairmay, prior to the application of the reducing composition, be placedunder tension by suitable devices such as curlers, or be straightenedout. The oxidation step may in particular be performed at a pH of about3 with hydrogen peroxide and may facilitate the formation of newdisulfide bridges enabling the head of hair to be held in the desiredshape.

The second technique involves a step of lanthionization using acomposition comprising a base belonging to the family of hydroxides. Thelanthionization step is generally performed at a basic pH of about 13.Lanthionization is the conversion of the disulfide bridges intomonosulfide bridges. This type of treatment is mainly used for shapingnaturally frizzy hair.

In order to obtain satisfactory performance in terms of durability ofshaping, the compositions used in the treatments known in the prior artmay comprise relatively high concentrations of chemical active agents(for example reducing agents or hydroxide compounds). Thus, thioglycolicacid may, for example, be used in certain compositions, at massconcentrations of between 6% and 11%, and sodium hydroxide at 2%.

Products comprising thioglycolic acid have an unpleasant odor, which maybe present during the application and may also persist on the hair oncethe treatment has been performed.

In addition, the treatments described above may lead to irreversibledegradation of the hair induced by changes in the intrinsic propertiesof the hair fiber.

These treatments may also irritate the scalp due to their relativelyhigh concentration of chemical active agents.

It is moreover known practice to supply heat during the treatment inorder to activate the processes. These techniques may effectively makeit possible to improve the cosmetic performance qualities, but alwaysinvolve high concentrations of chemical active agents and may thus havethe same drawbacks as the treatments described above.

Documents WO 2002/051 281, US 2006/0 042 649, US 2004/0 250 830, WO2002/100 210, US 2000/680 432, U.S. Pat. No. 6,079,422, U.S. Pat. No.5,988,182, U.S. Pat. No. 5,819,763, U.S. Pat. No. 5,773,802, U.S. Pat.No. 5,676,871, JP 09075125, JP 09051813, AU 9664467, U.S. Pat. No.5,494,598, EP 197 824, U.S. Pat. No. 4,710,609, U.S. Pat. No. 4,743,726,U.S. Pat. No. 4,952,360, U.S. Pat. No. 5,030,820 and U.S. Pat. No.5,286,949 describe objects, for example curlers, which may be heated ina household microwave oven and used on wet hair for drying andhairsetting.

U.S. Pat. No. 3,958,340 describes a process for the rapid drying of wigsusing air heated by microwave radiation.

Patent application US 2007/0 056 960 describes a shaping tool forcurling, straightening and drying locks of wet hair using microwaves.

Patent DE 3148538 describes a cylindrical tool, protected with a wall,around which a lock of hair is wound. The lock is dried and set usingmicrowaves applied in the space between the cylinder and the wall.

FR 2 178 049 discloses devices for releasing electromagnetic energy invarious materials.

Moreover, processes for heating and drying the hair usingelectromagnetic radiation are known from FR 2 114 540 and FR 2 118 945.

Patent application FR 2 959 917 describes a hair treatment process inwhich a mechanical tension is applied to the hair, which is then exposedto microwaves.

There is a need for novel processes, which are more efficient and lessaggressive, for permanently reshaping the hair.

There is especially interest in providing processes for obtainingimproved lasting shaping performance, while at the same time minimizingthe impact of chemical products on the hair and the scalp.

There is also a need to benefit from novel devices for lasting shapingof the hair.

The present invention is directed toward meeting all or some of theabovementioned needs.

According to a first aspect, the present invention relates to a cosmeticprocess for treating keratin fibers, preferably the hair, comprising atleast the steps consisting in:

a) applying to said keratin fibers a composition containing at least onesubstance chosen from fatty substances, non-silicone polymers andsurfactants,

b) applying a mechanical tension to said keratin fibers, and

c) exposing said keratin fibers under mechanical tension to microwaves,at a pressure ranging from 50 000 to 250 000 Pa, in the presence of atleast one solvent in vapor form on contact with the keratin fibers andwithout there being complete drying of the keratin fibers throughout theentire exposure to the microwaves,

the solvent(s) in vapor form being entirely generated by evaporating atleast one compound present, before emission of the microwaves, oncontact with the keratin fibers,

step a) taking place prior to step c).

In the present text, the term “solvent” is used without preference todenote a single solvent or a mixture of solvents.

The process according to the present invention may be performed in orderto lead to a durable shaping treatment that is less aggressive to thescalp and the hair. This is because the process according to theinvention dispenses with the use of compounds that are aggressive to thescalp.

In addition, application to the hair of a composition containing atleast one substance chosen from fatty substances, non-silicone polymersand surfactants, preferably prior to the application of a mechanicaltension, in the presence of microwaves and of a solvent in vapor form,makes it possible to obtain durable and improved shaping of the hairwithout it being necessary to use reducing agents or alkali metal oralkaline-earth metal hydroxides.

In particular, the process according to the invention may use in step a)a composition containing at least one fatty substance or a compositioncontaining at least one non-silicone polymer or a composition containingat least one surfactant.

Thus, according to one embodiment, the present invention is directedtoward a cosmetic process for treating keratin fibers, preferably thehair, comprising at least the steps consisting in:

a) applying to said keratin fibers a composition containing at least onefatty substance,

b) applying a mechanical tension to said keratin fibers, and

c) exposing said keratin fibers under mechanical tension to microwaves,at a pressure ranging from 50 000 to 250 000 Pa, in the presence of atleast one solvent in vapor form on contact with the keratin fibers andwithout there being complete drying of the keratin fibers throughout theentire exposure to the microwaves,

the solvent(s) in vapor form being entirely generated by evaporating atleast one compound present, before emission of the microwaves, oncontact with the keratin fibers,

step a) taking place prior to step c).

According to another embodiment, the present invention is directedtoward a cosmetic process for treating keratin fibers, preferably thehair, comprising at least the steps consisting in:

a) applying to said keratin fibers a composition containing at least onenon-silicone polymer,

b) applying a mechanical tension to said keratin fibers, and

c) exposing said keratin fibers under mechanical tension to microwaves,at a pressure ranging from 50 000 to 250 000 Pa, in the presence of atleast one solvent in vapor form on contact with the keratin fibers andwithout there being complete drying of the keratin fibers throughout theentire exposure to the microwaves,

the solvent(s) in vapor form being entirely generated by evaporating atleast one compound present, before emission of the microwaves, oncontact with the keratin fibers,

step a) taking place prior to step c).

According to yet another embodiment, the present invention is directedtoward a cosmetic process for treating keratin fibers, preferably thehair, comprising at least the steps consisting in:

a) applying to said keratin fibers a composition containing at least onesurfactant,

b) applying a mechanical tension to said keratin fibers, and

c) exposing said keratin fibers under mechanical tension to microwaves,at a pressure ranging from 50 000 to 250 000 Pa, in the presence of atleast one solvent in vapor form on contact with the keratin fibers andwithout there being complete drying of the keratin fibers throughout theentire exposure to the microwaves,

the solvent(s) in vapor form being entirely generated by evaporating atleast one compound present, before emission of the microwaves, oncontact with the keratin fibers,

step a) taking place prior to step c).

In one particular variant of the invention, the process according to theinvention does not comprise a step of applying to the keratin fibers anycomposition(s) comprising alkali metal or alkaline-earth metalhydroxides at a pH above 12 or reducing agents for cleaving thedisulfide bonds.

The process according to the invention allows a production of thedesired shaping: curling or straightening. The effect is obtaineddurably for several weeks. When the process according to the inventionis performed for obtaining curling, the curling obtained is uniform. Again in the volume of the head of hair is also observed.

The terms “including a”, “comprising a” and “containing a” should beunderstood as meaning “including at least one”, “comprising at leastone” and “containing at least one”.

The term “at least one” is equivalent to the term “one or more”.

The term “between” should be understood as being limits inclusive.

Step a)

The cosmetic hair treatment process according to the inventionespecially includes a step a) comprising the application of acomposition containing at least one substance chosen from fattysubstances, non-silicone polymers and surfactants.

Advantageously, the composition used in step a) is an aqueouscomposition, i.e. a composition comprising at least 5% by weight ofwater relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, thecomposition comprises from 20% to 99.9% by weight of water relative tothe total weight of the composition.

According to a particular, preferred embodiment of the invention, stepa) is prior to step b).

According to another particular embodiment of the invention, step b) isprior to step a).

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the steps areperformed in the following order: step a), then step b) and then stepc).

In one particular variant of the invention, the process according to theinvention does not comprise a step of applying to the keratin fibers anycomposition(s) comprising alkali metal or alkaline-earth metalhydroxides at a pH above 12 or reducing agents for cleaving thedisulfide bonds. In this variant, the composition of step a) is free ofreducing agent(s) for cleaving the disulfide bonds.

For the purposes of the invention, the expression “reducing agent forcleaving the disulfide bonds” means an agent chosen from thiols, alkalimetal sulfites, phosphines and hydrides.

Similarly, in this variant, the composition of step a) is free of alkalimetal or alkaline-earth metal hydroxides at a pH above 12.

The term “free of” means a composition comprising less than 0.5% byweight of the element under consideration, preferably less than 0.1% byweight relative to the total weight of the composition, and better stillnot containing any of the element under consideration.

Fatty Substances

According to a first embodiment variant of the invention, thecomposition of step a) is a composition containing at least one fattysubstance. According to this first variant, the composition preferablycomprises from 30% to 95% by weight of water relative to the totalweight of the composition.

Preferably, said composition comprises at least one fatty substance in acontent ranging from 0.1% to 95% by weight relative to the total weightof the composition.

According to a particular embodiment, said fatty substance(s) arepresent in said composition in a content ranging from 1% to 50% byweight and preferably from 5% to 30% by weight relative to the totalweight of the composition.

The term “fatty substance” means an organic compound that is insolublein water at ordinary temperature (25° C.) and at atmospheric pressure(760 mmHg), i.e. which has a solubility of less than 5%, preferably lessthan 1% and even more preferentially less than 0.1%. They have in theirstructure at least one sequence of at least two siloxane groups or ahydrocarbon-based chain containing at least 6 carbon atoms. In addition,the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under thesame temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform,ethanol, benzene, liquid petroleum jelly ordecamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

In particular, the fatty substance(s) used in step a) are neither(poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.

More particularly, the fatty substance(s) are chosen from C₆-C₁₆hydrocarbons, hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms,non-silicone oils of animal origin, plant oils of triglyceride type,synthetic triglycerides, fluoro oils, fatty alcohols, non-salified fattyacids, fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters other than triglyceridesand plant waxes, non-silicone waxes and silicones, and mixtures thereof.

It is recalled that, for the purposes of the invention, the fattyalcohols, fatty esters and fatty acids more particularly contain one ormore linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-basedgroups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which are optionallysubstituted, in particular, with one or more (in particular 1 to 4)hydroxyl groups. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may compriseone to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

Preferably, the fatty substance(s) used in step a) of the processaccording to the present invention are non-silicone fatty substances.

As regards the C₆-C₁₆ hydrocarbons, they are linear, branched oroptionally cyclic, and are preferably alkanes. Examples that may bementioned include hexane, dodecane and isoparaffins such asisohexadecane and isodecane.

A hydrocarbon-based oil of animal origin that may be mentioned isperhydrosqualene.

The triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin are preferably chosenfrom liquid fatty acid triglycerides comprising from 6 to 30 carbonatoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, oralternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrowoil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil,macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acidtriglycerides, for instance those sold by the company StéarineriesDubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by thecompany Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil.

The linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origincontaining more than 16 carbon atoms are preferably chosen from liquidparaffins, petroleum jelly, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes andhydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®.

The fluoro oils may be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane andperfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names Flutec® PC1 andFlutec® PC3 by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals;perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such asdodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names PF5050® and PF 5060® by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold underthe name Foralkyl® by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane andnonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives such as4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF 5052® bythe company 3M.

The fatty alcohols that may be used in the cosmetic composition of stepa) are saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols comprisingfrom 6 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 8 to 30 carbonatoms, among which mention may be made, for example, of cetyl alcohol,stearyl alcohol and the mixture thereof (cetylstearyl alcohol orcetearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol,2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol or linoleyl alcohol.

The non-salified fatty acids that may be used in the cosmeticcomposition of step a) may be saturated or unsaturated carboxylic acidscomprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and in particular from 9 to 30carbon atoms. They are more particularly chosen from myristic acid,palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid,linolenic acid and isostearic acid.

These acids are not salified. This means that they are introduced in theform of free acids and that the composition does not comprise anyalkaline agent leading to their salification.

The esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols, advantageouslydifferent from the triglycerides mentioned above, which may be used inthe cosmetic composition used in step a) are esters of saturated orunsaturated, linear or branched C₁-C₂₆ aliphatic mono- or polyacids andof saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C₁-C₂₆ aliphatic mono-or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters more particularlybeing greater than or equal to 10.

Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate;octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; cetyl lactate; C₁₂-C₁₅ alkyllactate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyllactate; (iso)stearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate;cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate;isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononylisononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methylacetyl ricinoleate; myristylstearate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyl palmitate;octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate;ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecylpalmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl,2-octyldodecyl, myristyl or stearyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butylstearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyllaurate.

Still within the context of this variant, esters of C₄-C₂₂ dicarboxylicor tricarboxylic acids and of C₁-C₂₂ alcohols and esters of mono-, di-or tricarboxylic acids and of C₂-C₂₆ di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxyalcohols may also be used.

Mention may be made in particular of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropylsebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate;diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate;octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate;pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate;pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate;propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate, tridecylerucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryltrilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleylcitrate, propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate;diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and polyethylene glycol distearates.

Among the esters mentioned above, it is preferred to use ethyl,isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl or stearyl palmitates, 2-ethylhexylpalmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl,butyl, cetyl or 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butylstearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyllaurate, isononyl isononanoate or cetyl octanoate.

The composition used in step a) of the process according to theinvention may also comprise, as fatty ester, sugar esters and diestersof C₆-C₃₀ and preferably C₁₂-C₂₂ fatty acids. It is recalled that theterm “sugar” means oxygenous hydrocarbon-based compounds that containseveral alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions,and that comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may bemonosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (orsaccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose,mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof,especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instancemethylglucose.

The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen especially from the groupcomprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars describedpreviously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C₆-C₃₀and preferably C₁₂-C₂₂ fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, thesecompounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugatedcarbon-carbon double bonds.

The esters according to this variant may also be chosen from monoesters,diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates,myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates,caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, especially,oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate mixed esters.

More particularly, use is made of monoesters and diesters and inparticular mono- or di-oleate, -stearate, -behenate, -oleopalmitate,-linoleate, -linolenate or -oleostearate of sucrose, glucose ormethylglucose.

An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the nameGlucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

Examples of esters or mixtures of esters of sugar of fatty acid that mayalso be mentioned include:

-   -   the products sold under the names F160, F140, F110, F90, F70 and        SL40 by the company Crodesta, respectively denoting sucrose        palmitostearates formed from 73% monoester and 27% diester and        triester, from 61% monoester and 39% diester, triester and        tetraester, from 52% monoester and 48% diester, triester and        tetraester, from 45% monoester and 55% diester, triester and        tetraester, from 39% monoester and 61% diester, triester and        tetraester, and sucrose monolaurate;    -   the products sold under the name Ryoto Sugar Esters, for example        referenced B370 and corresponding to sucrose behenate formed        from 20% monoester and 80% di-triester-polyester;    -   the sucrose mono-di-palmitostearate sold by the company        Goldschmidt under the name Tegosoft® PSE.

Use may also be made of esters of fatty acids and of fatty alcohols. Anexample that will be mentioned is the product sold under the nameCrodamol MS-PA (MH) by the company Croda.

The non-silicone wax(es) that may be used in the cosmetic compositionused in step a) are chosen especially from carnauba wax, candelilla wax,esparto grass wax, hydrocarbon waxes including paraffin wax, ozokeriteand microcrystalline wax, plant waxes such as olive wax, rice wax,hydrogenated jojoba wax or the absolute waxes of flowers such as theessential wax of blackcurrant blossom sold by the company Bertin(France), animal waxes, for instance beeswaxes or modified beeswaxes(cerabellina); other waxes or waxy starting materials that may be usedaccording to the invention are especially marine waxes such as theproduct sold by the company Sophim under the reference M82, andpolyethylene waxes or polyolefin waxes in general.

The silicones that may be used in step a) in accordance with theinvention may be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums.

Preferably, the silicone(s) are chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, inparticular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), and organomodifiedpolysiloxanes comprising at least one functional group chosen from aminogroups, aryl groups and alkoxy groups.

Organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter Noll'sChemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. They maybe volatile or nonvolatile.

When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen fromthose with a boiling point of between 60° C. and 260° C., and even moreparticularly from:

(i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferablyfrom 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These are, for example,octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name VolatileSilicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia,decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158by Union Carbide, and Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and mixturesthereof.

Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of thedimethylsiloxanes/methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Volatile Silicone®FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide, of formula:

Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes withorganosilicon compounds, such as the mixture ofoctamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetra(trimethylsilyl)pentaerythritol(50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane andoxy-1,1′-bis(2,2,2′,2′,3,3′-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane;

(ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 siliconatoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5×10⁻⁶ m²/s at 25°C. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane sold in particular under thename SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to thiscategory are also described in the article published in Cosmetics andToiletries, Vol. 91, January 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, VolatileSilicone Fluids for Cosmetics.

Use is preferably made of nonvolatile polydialkylsiloxanes,polydialkylsiloxane gums and resins, polyorganosiloxanes modified by theorganofunctional groups above, and mixtures thereof.

These silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes,among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes bearingtrimethylsilyl end groups. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at25° C. according to Standard ASTM 445 Appendix C.

Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, in a nonlimitingmanner, of the following commercial products:

-   -   the Silbione® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the Mirasil®        oils sold by Rhodia, for instance the oil 70 047 V 500 000;    -   the oils of the Mirasil® series sold by the company Rhodia;    -   the oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Corning, such as        DC200 with a viscosity of 60 000 mm²/s;    -   the Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils of the        SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.

Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes bearingdimethylsilanol end groups known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA),such as the oils of the 48 series from the company Rhodia.

In this category of polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may also be made ofthe products sold under the names Abil Wax® 9800 and 9801 by the companyGoldschmidt, which are poly(C₁-C₂₀)dialkylsiloxanes.

The silicone gums that may be used in accordance with the invention areespecially polydialkylsiloxanes and preferably polydimethylsiloxaneswith high number-average molecular weights of between 200 000 and 1 000000, used alone or as a mixture in a solvent. This solvent can be chosenfrom volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oils,polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) oils, isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes,methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane and tridecane, or mixturesthereof.

Products that may be used more particularly in accordance with theinvention are mixtures such as:

-   -   the mixtures formed from a hydroxy-terminated        polydimethylsiloxane or dimethiconol (CTFA) chain, and from a        cyclic polydimethylsiloxane, also known as cyclomethicone        (CTFA), such as the product Q2 1401 sold by the company Dow        Corning;    -   mixtures of a polydimethylsiloxane gum and a cyclic silicone,        such as the product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid from the company        General Electric; this product is an SF 30 gum corresponding to        a dimethicone, having a number-average molecular weight of 500        000, dissolved in the oil SF 1202 Silicone Fluid corresponding        to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane;    -   mixtures of two PDMSs with different viscosities, and more        particularly of a PDMS gum and of a PDMS oil, such as the        product SF 1236 from the company General Electric. The product        SF 1236 is a mixture of a gum SE 30 defined above with a        viscosity of 20 m²/s and of an oil SF 96 with a viscosity of        5×10⁻⁶ m²/s. This product preferably comprises 15% of gum SE 30        and 85% of an oil SF 96.

The organopolysiloxane resins that may be used in accordance with theinvention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the followingunits:

R2SiO2/2, R3SiO1/2, RSiO3/2 and SiO4/2

in which R represents an alkyl containing 1 to 16 carbon atoms.Particularly preferred among these products are those in which R denotesa C1-C4 lower alkyl group, more particularly methyl.

Among these resins, mention may be made of the product sold under thename Dow Corning 593 or those sold under the names Silicone Fluid SS4230 and SS 4267 by the company General Electric, which are silicones ofdimethyl/trimethylsiloxane structure.

Mention may also be made of the trimethylsiloxysilicate type resins soldin particular under the names X22-4914, X21-5034 and X21-5037 by thecompany Shin-Etsu.

The organomodified silicones that may be used in step a) are siliconesas defined previously and comprising in their structure one or moreorganofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.

The organomodified silicones may be polydiarylsiloxanes, in particularpolydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized withthe organofunctional groups mentioned previously.

The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are chosen particularly from linear and/orbranched polydimethyl/methylphenylsiloxanes andpolydimethyl/diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity of from 1×10⁻⁵ to 5×10⁻²m²/s at 25° C.

Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, examples that may be mentionedinclude the products sold under the following names:

-   -   the Silbione® oils of the 70 641 series from Rhodia;    -   the oils of the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 series from Rhodia;    -   the oil Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow Corning;    -   the silicones of the PK series from Bayer, such as the product        PK20;    -   the silicones of the PN and PH series from Bayer, such as the        products PN1000 and PH1000;    -   certain oils of the SF series from General Electric, such as SF        1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

Mention may also be made, among the organomodified silicones, ofpolyorganosiloxanes comprising:

-   -   substituted or unsubstituted amino groups, such as the products        sold under the names GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by the        company Genesee or the products sold under the names Q2 8220 and        Dow Corning 929 or 939 by the company Dow Corning. The        substituted amino groups are in particular C1-C4 aminoalkyl        groups;    -   alkoxylated groups, such as the product sold under the name        Silicone Copolymer F-755 by SWS Silicones, and Abil Wax® 2428,        2434 and 2440 by the company Goldschmidt.

Preferably, the fatty substance(s) used in the composition according tothe invention are non-silicone fatty substances.

In one variant of the invention, the fatty substance(s) are chosen fromcompounds that are liquid or pasty at room temperature (25° C.) and atatmospheric pressure.

In this variant, preferably, the fatty substance(s) are compounds thatare liquid at room temperature (25° C.) and at atmospheric pressure.

Even more preferentially, in this variant, the fatty substance(s) usedin the composition used in step a) according to the invention are liquidand non-silicone at a temperature of 25° C. and at atmospheric pressure.

Still in this variant, the fatty substance(s) are advantageously chosenfrom C₆-C₁₆ hydrocarbons, hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbonatoms, triglycerides, fatty alcohols, esters of a fatty acid and/or of afatty alcohol other than triglycerides, or mixtures thereof.

Preferably, in this variant, the fatty substance(s) are chosen fromliquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, liquid fatty alcohols and liquidesters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols, or mixtures thereof.

In another variant of the invention, the fatty substance(s) are chosenfrom compounds that are solid at room temperature (25° C.) and atatmospheric pressure.

In this variant, the fatty substance(s) are advantageously chosen fromhydrocarbon waxes, plant waxes, solid fatty alcohols and solid esters offatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols, or mixtures thereof.

Non-Silicone Polymers

According to a second embodiment variant of the invention, thecomposition of step a) is a composition containing at least onenon-silicone polymer.

According to this second variant, the composition preferably comprisesfrom 25% to 95% by weight of water and in particular from 30% to 90% byweight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, said composition comprises at least one non-silicone polymerin a content ranging from 0.01% to 95% by weight relative to the totalweight of the composition.

According to a particular embodiment, said non-silicone polymer(s) arepresent in said composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 50% byweight and preferably from 1% to 30% by weight relative to the totalweight of the composition.

For the purposes of the invention, the non-silicone polymer(s) used instep a) may be chosen from thickening, fixing or conditioning polymers.

The term “thickening polymer” means a polymer which, when introduced at1% by weight into a composition not containing it, makes it possible toincrease the viscosity thereof by at least 100 cps and preferably atleast 500 cps, at 25° C. and at a shear rate of 1 s⁻¹. This viscositymay be measured using a cone/plate viscometer (Haake R600 rheometer orthe like).

Preferably, use will be made of a polymer which, when introduced at 1%by weight in an aqueous solution or an aqueous-alcoholic solutioncontaining 30% ethanol, and at pH 7, or in an oil chosen from liquidpetroleum jelly, isopropyl myristate or cyclopentadimethylsiloxane,makes it possible to achieve a viscosity of at least 100 cps andpreferably of at least 500 cps, at 25° C. and at a shear rate of 1 s⁻¹.This viscosity may be measured using a cone/plate viscometer (Haake R600rheometer or the like).

The thickening polymers may thicken the aqueous phase and/or the fattyphase, preferentially the aqueous phase.

The thickening polymer(s) used in step a) may be chosen fromcellulose-based thickeners, especially hydroxyethylcellulose,hydroxypropylcellulose or carboxymethylcellulose, guar gum andderivatives thereof, especially hydroxypropyl guar, gums of microbialorigin, especially xanthan gum or scleroglucan gum, crosslinked acrylicacid or acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid homopolymers, and associativepolymers.

A hydroxypropyl guar that will be mentioned, for example, is the productsold by the company Rhodia under the trade name Jaguar HP 105.

As regards the associative thickeners, one or more polymers of nonionicor ionic nature may be used. Preferably, the associative thickeners arenonionic, anionic or cationic.

The chemical structure of the associative polymers (or amphiphilicpolymers) more particularly comprises at least one hydrophilic regionand at least one hydrophobic region. The term “hydrophobic group” meansa radical or polymer with a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branchedhydrocarbon-based chain, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferablyfrom 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms andmore preferentially from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.

Preferentially, the hydrocarbon-based group is derived from amonofunctional compound. By way of example, the hydrophobic group may bederived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol ordecyl alcohol. It may also denote a hydrocarbon-based polymer, forinstance polybutadiene.

Among the anionic amphiphilic thickening polymers comprising at leastone fatty chain (hydrophobic) used in step a), mention may be made of:

(I) polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit, and at least onefatty-chain allyl ether unit, more particularly those whose hydrophilicunit is formed by an unsaturated ethylenic anionic monomer,advantageously by a vinylcarboxylic acid and most particularly by anacrylic acid or a methacrylic acid or mixtures thereof, and whosefatty-chain allyl ether unit corresponds to the monomer of formula (A)below:

CH2═CR′CH2OBnR  (A)

in which R′ denotes H or CH3, B denotes an ethylenoxy radical, n is zeroor denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 100, R denotes ahydrocarbon-based radical chosen from alkyl, arylalkyl, aryl, alkylaryland cycloalkyl radicals, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms,preferably 10 to 24 and even more particularly from 12 to 18 carbonatoms. The unit of formula (A) that is more particularly preferred is aunit in which R′ denotes H, n is equal to 10, and R denotes a stearylradical (C18).

Among these fatty-chain anionic polymers, those that are preferred arepolymers formed from 20% to 60% by weight of acrylic acid and/ormethacrylic acid, 5% to 60% by weight of lower alkyl (meth)acrylates, 2%to 50% by weight of fatty-chain allyl ether of formula (A), and 0 to 1%by weight of a crosslinking agent that is a well-known copolymerizablepolyethylenically unsaturated monomer, for instance diallyl phthalate,allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycoldimethacrylate or methylenebisacrylamide.

Among the latter polymers, the ones that are most particularly preferredare crosslinked terpolymers of methacrylic acid, of ethyl acrylate, ofpolyethylene glycol (10 EO) stearyl ether (Steareth 10), especiallythose sold by the company Allied Colloids under the names Salcare SC 80and Salcare SC 90, which are aqueous emulsions containing 30% of acrosslinked terpolymer of methacrylic acid, of ethyl acrylate and ofsteareth-10 allyl ether (40/50/10).

(II) polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit of unsaturatedolefinic carboxylic acid type, and at least one hydrophobic unit of thetype such as a (C10-C30) alkyl ester of an unsaturated carboxylic acid.

These polymers are preferably chosen from those in which the hydrophilicunit of unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type corresponds to themonomer of formula (B) below:

in which R1 denotes H or CH3 or C2H5, i.e. acrylic acid, methacrylicacid or ethacrylic acid units, and whose hydrophobic unit of the typesuch as a (C10-C30) alkyl ester of an unsaturated carboxylic acidcorresponds to the monomer of formula (C) below:

in which R2 denotes H or CH3 or C2H5 (i.e. acrylate, methacrylate orethacrylate units) and preferably H (acrylate units) or CH3(methacrylate units), R3 denoting a C10-C30 and preferably C12-C22 alkylradical.

The (C10-C30)alkyl esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids are, forexample, lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecylacrylate and dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates,lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecylmethacrylate and dodecyl methacrylate.

Among the fatty-chain anionic polymers of this type, the ones that willbe used more particularly are polymers formed from a mixture of monomerscomprising:

(i) essentially acrylic acid,

(ii) an ester of formula (C) described above and in which R2 denotes Hor CH3, R3 denoting an alkyl radical containing from 12 to 22 carbonatoms,

(iii) and a crosslinking agent, which is a well-known copolymerizablepolyethylenic unsaturated monomer, for instance diallyl phthalate, allyl(meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate ormethylenebisacrylamide.

Among the fatty-chain anionic polymers of this type, use will be mademore particularly of those formed from 95% to 60% by weight of acrylicacid (hydrophilic unit), 4% to 40% by weight of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate(hydrophobic unit) and 0 to 6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizablemonomer, or alternatively those formed from 98% to 96% by weight ofacrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 1% to 4% by weight of C10-C30 alkylacrylate (hydrophobic unit) and 0.1% to 0.6% by weight of crosslinkingpolymerizable monomer such as those described previously.

Among said polymers above, the ones most particularly preferredaccording to the present invention are the carbomer product sold by thecompany Lubrizol under the name Carbopol Ultrez 10, and also theproducts sold by the company Goodrich under the trade names Pemulen TR1,Pemulen TR2, Carbopol 1382, and even more preferentially Pemulen TR1,and the product sold by the company SEPPIC under the name Coatex SX.

(III) maleic anhydride/C30-C38 α-olefin/alkyl maleate terpolymers, suchas the product (maleic anhydride/C30-C38 α-olefin/isopropyl maleatecopolymer) sold under the name Performa V 1608 by the company NewphaseTechnologies.

(IV) acrylic terpolymers comprising:

(a) 20% to 70% by weight of an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturatedcarboxylic acid,

(b) 20% to 80% by weight of a non-surfactant α,β-monoethylenicallyunsaturated monomer other than (a),

(c) 0.5% to 60% by weight of a nonionic monourethane, which is theproduct of reaction of a monohydric surfactant with a monoethylenicallyunsaturated monoisocyanate,

such as those described in patent application EP-A-0 173 109 and moreparticularly a methacrylic acid/methylacrylate/dimethyl-meta-isopropenylbenzyl isocyanate terpolymer ofethoxylated (40 EO) behenyl alcohol as an aqueous 25% dispersion.

(V) copolymers comprising among their monomers an α,β-monoethylenicallyunsaturated carboxylic acid and an ester of an α,β-monoethylenicallyunsaturated carboxylic acid and of an oxyalkylenated (C8-C30) fattyalcohol.

Preferentially, these compounds also comprise as monomer an ester of anα,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and of a C₁-C₄alcohol.

An example of a compound of this type that may be mentioned is Aculyn 22sold by the company Röhm & Haas, which is a methacrylic acid/ethylacrylate/oxyalkylenated stearyl methacrylate terpolymer.

The fatty-chain (hydrophobic) nonionic amphiphilic thickening polymer(s)used in step a) are preferably chosen from:

(1) celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain,especially such as:

-   -   hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least        one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups,        or mixtures thereof, and in which the alkyl groups are        preferably C8-C22, for instance the product Natrosol Plus Grade        330 CS (C16 alkyl) sold by the company Aqualon, or the product        Bermocoll EHM 100 sold by the company Berol Nobel,    -   hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with alkylphenyl polyalkylene        glycol ether groups, such as the product Amercell Polymer HM1500        (nonylphenyl polyethylene glycol (15) ether) sold by the company        Amerchol,

(2) hydroxypropyl guars modified with groups comprising at least onefatty chain, such as the product Esaflor HM 22 (C22 alkyl chain) sold bythe company Lamberti, and the products RE210-18 (C14 alkyl chain) andRE205-1 (C20 alkyl chain) sold by the company Rhône-Poulenc,

(3) chemically modified or unmodified starches, in particular distarchphosphates and carboxymethylstarch,

(4) copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of fatty-chain hydrophobicmonomers,

with, for example:

-   -   the products Antaron V216 or Ganex V216        (vinylpyrrolidone/hexadecene copolymer) sold by the company ISP,        -   the products Antaron V220 or Ganex V220            (vinylpyrrolidone/eicosene copolymer) sold by the company            ISP,

(5) copolymers of C1-C6 alkyl methacrylates or acrylates and ofamphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, for instancethe oxyethylenated methyl acrylate/stearyl acrylate copolymer sold bythe company Goldschmidt under the name Antil 208,

(6) copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates or acrylates and ofhydrophobic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, for instancethe polyethylene glycol methacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer,

(7) polymers comprising an aminoplast ether backbone having at least onefatty chain, such as the Pure Thix compounds sold by Süd-Chemie,

(8) polyurethane polyethers comprising in their chain both hydrophilicblocks usually of polyoxyethylenated nature and hydrophobic blocks,which may be aliphatic sequences alone and/or cycloaliphatic and/oraromatic sequences.

Preferably, the polyurethane polyethers comprise at least twohydrocarbon-based fatty chains containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms,separated by a hydrophilic block, the hydrocarbon-based chains possiblybeing pendent chains or chains at the end of the hydrophilic block.

As examples of fatty-chain nonionic polyurethane polyethers that may beused in step a) of the invention, use may be made of Rheolate 205containing a urea function, sold by the company Rheox, or Rheolate 208,204 or 212, and also Acrysol RM 184, Aculyn or Acrysol 44 and Aculyn orAcrysol 46 from the company Röhm & Haas [Aculyn 46 is a polycondensateof polyethylene glycol containing 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, ofstearyl alcohol and of methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), at15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%); Aculyn44 is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 150 or 180 molof ethylene oxide, of decyl alcohol and of methylenebis(4-cyclohexylisocyanate) (SMDI), at 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol(39%) and water (26%)].

Mention may also be made of the product Elfacos T210 containing aC12-C14 alkyl chain and the product Elfacos T212 containing a C18 alkylchain, from Akzo, and also the product DW 1206B from Röhm & Haas,containing a C20 alkyl chain and a urethane bond, sold at a solidscontent of 20% in water.

Use may also be made of solutions or dispersions of these polymers,especially in water or in aqueous-alcoholic medium. Examples of suchpolymers that may be mentioned are Rheolate 255, Rheolate 278 andRheolate 244 sold by the company Rheox. Use may also be made of theproducts DW 1206F and DW 1206J sold by the company Röhm & Haas.

The polyurethane polyethers that may be used according to the inventionare in particular those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakkeand Fk. Hansen—Colloid Polym. Sci., 271, 380-389 (1993).

The cationic amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one fatty chain(hydrophobic) used in step a) may especially be chosen from quaternizedcellulose derivatives, cationic polyurethanes and cationicpolyvinyllactams, and preferably from quaternized cellulose derivatives.

As examples of polymers of this type, mention may be made in particularof:

-   -   quaternized celluloses modified with groups comprising at least        one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups        comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof,    -   quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups        comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or        alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures        thereof.

The alkyl radicals borne by the above quaternized celluloses orhydroxyethylcelluloses preferably comprise from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.The aryl radicals preferably denote phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthrylgroups.

Examples of quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses containing C8-C30fatty chains that may be indicated include the products Quatrisoft LM200, Quatrisoft LM-X529-18-A, Quatrisoft LM-X529-18B (C12 alkyl) andQuatrisoft EM-X529-8 (C18 alkyl) sold by the company Amerchol and theproducts Crodacel QM, Crodacel QL (C12 alkyl) and Crodacel QS (C18alkyl) sold by the company Croda.

All the anionic, cationic, amphoteric and nonionic fixing polymers andmixtures thereof used in the art may be used in the composition of stepa) according to the present application.

The term “fixing polymer” means any polymer that is capable of giving ashape to a head of hair or of holding a head of hair in a given shape.

The fixing polymers may be soluble in the cosmetically acceptable mediumor insoluble in this same medium and used in this case in the form ofdispersions of solid or liquid particles of polymer (latex orpseudolatex).

The anionic fixing polymer(s) generally used are polymers comprisinggroups derived from carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid or phosphoric acidand have a number-average molecular mass of between approximately 500and 5 000 000.

The carboxylic groups are provided by unsaturated, mono- or dicarboxylicacid monomers, such as those corresponding to formula (I):

in which n is an integer from 0 to 10, A₁ denotes a methylene groupoptionally joined to the carbon atom of the unsaturated group or to theadjacent methylene group when n is greater than 1, via a heteroatom suchas oxygen or sulfur, R₇ denotes a hydrogen atom or a phenyl or benzylgroup, R₈ denotes a hydrogen atom or a lower alkyl or carboxyl group,and R₉ denotes a hydrogen atom, a lower alkyl group, or a —CH₂—COOH,phenyl or benzyl group.

In the abovementioned formula, a lower alkyl group preferably denotes agroup having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular methyl and ethylgroups.

The anionic fixing polymers comprising carboxylic groups which arepreferred according to the invention are:

A) copolymers of acrylic or methacryclic acid or salts thereof, and ofacrylamide, sold in the form of their sodium salts under the names Reten421, 423 or 425 by the company Hercules;

B) copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid with a monoethylenicmonomer such as ethylene, styrene, vinyl esters and acrylic ormethacrylic acid esters, optionally grafted onto a polyalkylene glycolsuch as polyethylene glycol and optionally crosslinked. Such polymersare described in particular in French patent 1 222 944 and German patentapplication 2 330 956, the copolymers of this type comprising anoptionally N-alkylated and/or hydroxyalkylated acrylamide unit in theirchain as described in particular in Luxembourg patent applications 75370and 75371 or sold under the name Quadramer by the company AmericanCyanamid. Mention may also be made of copolymers of acrylic acid and ofC1-C4 alkyl methacrylate and terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, of acrylicacid and of methacrylate of C1-C20 alkyl, for example laurylmethacrylate, such as the product sold by the company ISP under the nameAcrylidone® LM and methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/tert-butyl acrylateterpolymers such as the product sold under the name Luvimer® 100 P bythe company BASF;

Mention may also be made of methacrylic acid/acrylic acid/ethylacrylate/methyl methacrylate copolymers as an aqueous dispersion, soldunder the name Amerhold® DR 25 by the company Amerchol;

C) crotonic acid copolymers, such as those comprising vinyl acetate orpropionate units in their chain and optionally other monomers such asallyl esters or methallyl esters, vinyl ether or vinyl ester of a linearor branched saturated carboxylic acid with a long hydrocarbon-basedchain, such as those containing at least 5 carbon atoms, it beingpossible for these polymers optionally to be grafted or crosslinked, oralternatively another vinyl, allyl or methallyl ester monomer of an α-or β-cyclic carboxylic acid. Such polymers are described, inter alia, inFrench patent Nos. 1 222 944, 1 580 545, 2 265 782, 2 265 781, 1 564 110and 2 439 798. Commercial products coming within this category are theresins 28-29-30, 26-13-14 and 28-13-10 sold by National Starch;

D) Copolymers of C₄-C₈ monounsaturated carboxylic acids or anhydrideschosen from:

-   -   copolymers comprising (i) one or more maleic, fumaric or        itaconic acids or anhydrides and (ii) at least one monomer        selected from vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides,        phenylvinyl derivatives, acrylic acid and its esters, the        anhydride functions of these copolymers optionally being        monoesterified or monoamidated. Such polymers are described, in        particular, in U.S. Pat. Nos. 2,047,398, 2,723,248 and        2,102,113, and GB patent No. 839 805. Commercial products are in        particular those sold under the names Gantrez® AN or ES by ISP;    -   copolymers comprising (i) one or more maleic, citraconic or        itaconic anhydride units and (ii) one or more monomers chosen        from allyl or methallyl esters, optionally comprising one or        more acrylamide, methacrylamide, α-olefin, acrylic or        methacrylic ester, acrylic or methacrylic acid or        vinylpyrrolidone groups in their chain,    -   the anhydride functions of these copolymers optionally being        monoesterified or monoamidated.

These polymers are described, for example, in the Applicant's Frenchpatents 2 350 384 and 2 357 241.

E) Polyacrylamides comprising carboxylate groups.

The homopolymers and copolymers comprising sulfonic groups are polymerscomprising vinylsulfonic, styrenesulfonic, naphthalenesulfonic oracrylamidoalkylsulfonic units.

These polymers may especially be selected from:

-   -   polyvinylsulfonic acid salts with a molecular mass of between        1000 and 100 000 approximately, and also the copolymers with an        unsaturated comonomer such as acrylic or methacrylic acids and        esters thereof, and also acrylamide or derivatives thereof,        vinyl ethers and vinylpyrrolidone;    -   salts of polystyrenesulfonic acid, such as the sodium salts        sold, for example, under the names Flexan® 500 and Flexan® 130        by National Starch. These compounds are described in patent FR 2        198 719;    -   polyacrylamidesulfonic acid salts, such as those mentioned in        U.S. Pat. No. 4,128,631 and more particularly the        polyacrylamidoethylpropanesulfonic acid sold under the name        Cosmedia Polymer HSP 1180 by Henkel.

Mention may be made, as other anionic fixing polymer which can be usedaccording to the invention, of the branched block anionic polymer soldunder the name Fixate G-100 by Noveon.

According to the invention, the anionic fixing polymer(s) used in stepa) are preferably chosen from acrylic acid copolymers such as theacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/N-tert-butylacrylamide terpolymers sold inparticular under the name Ultrahold® Strong by the company BASF,copolymers derived from crotonic acid, such as vinyl acetate/vinyltert-butylbenzoate/crotonic acid terpolymers and the crotonic acid/vinylacetate/vinyl neododecanoate terpolymers sold especially under the nameResin 28-29-30 by the company National Starch, polymers derived frommaleic, fumaric or itaconic acids or anhydrides with vinyl esters, vinylethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives and acrylic acid andesters thereof, such as the methyl vinyl ether/monoesterified maleicanhydride copolymers sold, for example, under the name Gantrez® by thecompany ISP, the copolymers of methacrylic acid and of methylmethacrylate sold under the name Eudragit® L by the company Rohm Pharma,the copolymers of methacrylic acid and of ethyl acrylate sold under thename Luvimer® MAEX or MAE by the company BASF, the vinylacetate/crotonic acid copolymers sold under the name Luviset CA 66 bythe company BASF, the vinyl acetate/crotonic acid copolymers graftedwith polyethylene glycol sold under the name Aristoflex® A by thecompany BASF, and the polymer sold under the name Fixate G-100 by thecompany Noveon.

Among the anionic fixing polymers mentioned above, it is moreparticularly preferred in the context of the present invention to usethe methyl vinyl ether/monoesterified maleic anhydride copolymers soldunder the name Gantrez® ES 425 by the company ISP, the acrylicacid/ethyl acrylate/N-tert-butylacrylamide terpolymers sold under thename Ultrahold® Strong by the company BASF, the copolymers ofmethacrylic acid and of methyl methacrylate sold under the nameEudragit® L by the company Rohm Pharma, the vinyl acetate/vinyltert-butylbenzoate/crotonic acid terpolymers and the crotonic acid/vinylacetate/vinyl neododecanoate terpolymers sold under the name Resin28-29-30 by the company National Starch, the copolymers of methacrylicacid and of ethyl acrylate sold under the name Luvimer® MAEX or MAE bythe company BASF, the vinylpyrrolidone/acrylic acid/lauryl methacrylateterpolymers sold under the name Acrylidone® LM by the company ISP andthe polymer sold under the name Fixate G-100 by the company Noveon.

The cationic fixing film-forming polymer(s) that may be used in step a)are preferably chosen from polymers comprising primary, secondary,tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups forming part of the polymerchain or directly connected to the latter, and having a molecular weightof between 500 and approximately 5 000 000 and preferably between 1000and 3 000 000.

Among these polymers, mention may be made more particularly of thefollowing cationic polymers:

-   -   (1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or        methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the        units of the following formulae:

in which:

R₃ denotes a hydrogen atom or a CH₃ radical;

A is a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbonatoms or a hydroxyalkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;

R₄, R₅ and R₆, which may be identical or different, represent an alkylgroup having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical;

R₁ and R₂, which may be identical or different, each represent ahydrogen atom or an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

X denotes a methosulfate anion or a halide, such as chloride or bromide.

The copolymers of family (1) also contain one or more units derived fromcomonomers that may be chosen from the family of acrylamides,methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamidessubstituted on the nitrogen with lower (C₁-C₄) alkyl groups, groupsderived from acrylic or methacrylic acids or esters thereof,vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinylesters.

Thus, among these copolymers of family (1), mention may be made of:

-   -   copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate        quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide,        such as the product sold under the name Hercofloc® by the        company Hercules,    -   copolymers of acrylamide and        methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, described for        example in patent application EP-A-080976 and sold under the        name Bina Quat P 100 by the company Ciba Geigy,    -   copolymer of acrylamide and of        methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, such as that        sold under the name Reten by Hercules,    -   quaternized or non-quaternized        vinylpyrrolidone/dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate        copolymers, such as the products sold under the name Gafquat® by        the company ISP, for instance Gafquat® 734 or Gafquat® 755, or        alternatively the products known as Copolymer® 845, 958 and 937.        These polymers are described in detail in French patents 2 077        143 and 2 393 573,        -   dimethylaminoethyl            methacrylate/vinylcaprolactam/vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers,            such as the product sold under the name Gaffix VC 713 by the            company ISP, and        -   quaternized            vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide            copolymers, such as the products sold under the name            Gafquat® HS 100 by the company ISP.    -   (2) quaternary copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of        vinylimidazole;    -   (3) chitosans or salts thereof; the salts which can be used are        more particularly the acetate, lactate, glutamate, gluconate or        pyrrolidone carboxylate of chitosan.

These compounds include the chitosan having a degree of deacetylation of90.5% by weight which is sold under the name Kytan Brut Standard by thecompany Aber Technologies, and the chitosan pyrrolidone carboxylatewhich is sold under the name Kytamer® PC by the company Amerchol.

The commercial products corresponding to this definition are moreparticularly the products sold under the name Celquat L 200 and CelquatH 100 by the company National Starch.

The amphoteric fixing polymer(s) that may be used in step a) inaccordance with the invention may be chosen from polymers comprisingunits B and C distributed statistically in the polymer chain, where Bdenotes a unit derived from a monomer comprising at least one basicnitrogen atom and C denotes a unit derived from an acid monomercomprising one or more carboxylic or sulfonic groups, or alternatively Band C may denote groups derived from carboxybetaine or sulfobetainezwitterionic monomers;

B and C can also denote a cationic polymer chain comprising primary,secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine groups, in which at least one ofthe amine groups carries a carboxylic or sulfonic group connected via ahydrocarbon group, or alternatively B and C form part of a chain of apolymer comprising an α,β-dicarboxylic ethylene unit in which one of thecarboxylic groups has been made to react with a polyamine comprising oneor more primary or secondary amine groups.

The more particularly preferred amphoteric fixing polymers correspondingto the definition given above are chosen from the following polymers:

(1) copolymers containing acidic vinyl units and basic vinyl units, suchas those resulting from the copolymerization of a monomer derived from avinyl compound bearing a carboxylic group such as, more particularly,acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, α-chloroacrylic acid, andof a basic monomer derived from a substituted vinyl compound containingat least one basic atom, such as, more particularly, dialkylaminoalkylmethacrylate and acrylate, dialkylaminoalkylmethacrylamide andacrylamide. Such compounds are described in U.S. Pat. No. 3,836,537.

(2) Polymers comprising units derived from:

-   -   a) at least one monomer chosen from acrylamides and        methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen atom with an alkyl        group,    -   b) at least one acidic comonomer containing one or more reactive        carboxylic groups, and    -   c) at least one basic comonomer such as esters with primary,        secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine substituents of acrylic        and methacrylic acids and the product of quaternization of        dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with dimethyl or diethyl        sulfate.

The more particularly preferred N-substituted acrylamides ormethacrylamides according to the invention are the compounds in whichthe alkyl groups comprise from 2 to 12 carbon atoms and moreparticularly N-ethylacrylamide, N-tert-butylacrylamide,N-tert-octylacrylamide, N-octylacrylamide, N-decylacrylamide,N-dodecylacrylamide and the corresponding methacrylamides.

The acidic comonomers are chosen more particularly from acrylic,methacrylic, crotonic, itaconic, maleic or fumaric acid and also themonoesters of alkyl having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms of maleic or fumaricacid or anhydride.

The preferred basic comonomers are aminoethyl, butylaminoethyl,N,N′-dimethylaminoethyl and N-tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylates.

The copolymer whose CTFA (4th edition, 1991) name isoctylacrylamide/acrylates/butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, suchas the products sold under the name Amphomer® or Lovocryl® 47 by thecompany National Starch, is particularly used.

(3) Partially or totally acylated and crosslinked polyaminoamidesderived from polyaminoamides of general formula:

CO—R₁₀—CO—Z  (II)

in which R10 represents a divalent group derived from a saturateddicarboxylic acid, a mono- or dicarboxylic aliphatic acid containing anethylenic double bond, an ester of a lower alkanol having 1 to 6 carbonatoms of these acids, or a group derived from the addition of any one ofsaid acids to a bis(primary) or bis(secondary) amine, and Z denotes agroup derived from a bis(primary), mono- or bis(secondary)polyalkylene-polyamine and preferably represents:

-   -   a) in proportions of from 60 to 100 mol %, the group:

where x=2 and p=2 or 3, or alternatively x=3 and p=2

this group being derived from diethylenetriamine, fromtriethylenetetramine or from dipropylenetriamine;

-   -   b) in proportions of from 0 to 40 mol %, the group (III) above        in which x=2 and p=1 and which is derived from ethylenediamine,        or the group derived from piperazine:

-   -   c) in proportions of from 0 to 20 mol %, the —NH—(CH₂)₆—NH—        group derived from hexamethylenediamine,

these polyaminoamides being crosslinked by addition reaction of abifunctional crosslinking agent chosen from epihalohydrins, diepoxides,dianhydrides or bisunsaturated derivatives, by means of from 0.025 to0.35 mol of crosslinking agent per amine group of the polyaminoamide,and acylated by reaction with acrylic acid, chloroacetic acid or analkane sultone or their salts.

The saturated carboxylic acids are preferably chosen from acids having 6to 10 carbon atoms, such as adipic acid, 2,2,4-trimethyladipic acid and2,4,4-trimethyladipic acid, terephthalic acid, and acids containing anethylenic double bond such as, for example, acrylic acid, methacrylicacid and itaconic acid.

The alkane sultones used in the acylation are preferably propane orbutane sultone and the salts of the acylating agents are preferably thesodium or potassium salts.

(4) polymers comprising zwitterionic units of formula:

in which R11 denotes a polymerizable unsaturated group such as anacrylate, methacrylate, acrylamide or methacrylamide group, y and zrepresent an integer from 1 to 3, R12 and R13 represent a hydrogen atom,a methyl, ethyl or propyl group, R14 and R15 represent a hydrogen atomor an alkyl group such that the sum of the carbon atoms in R14 and R15does not exceed 10.

The polymers comprising such units can also comprise units derived fromnon-zwitterionic monomers, such as dimethyl- or diethylaminoethylacrylate or methacrylate or alkyl acrylates or methacrylates,acrylamides or methacrylamides, or vinyl acetate.

Mention may be made, by way of example, of methyl methacrylate/methyldimethylcarboxymethylammonioethyl methacrylate copolymers, such as theproduct sold under the name Diaformer Z301 by Sandoz.

(5) polymers derived from chitosan comprising monomer unitscorresponding to the following formulae:

the unit (D) being present in proportions of between 0 and 30%, the unit(E) in proportions of between 5% and 50% and the unit (F) in proportionsof between 30% and 90%, it being understood that, in this unit (F), R16represents a group of formula:

in which, if q=0, R₁₇, R₁₈ and R₁₉, which may be identical or different,each represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl, hydroxyl, acetoxy or aminoresidue, a monoalkylamine residue or a dialkylamine residue that areoptionally interrupted with one or more nitrogen atoms and/or optionallysubstituted with one or more amine, hydroxyl, carboxyl, alkylthio orsulfonic groups, or an alkylthio residue in which the alkyl group bearsan amino residue, at least one of the groups R₁₇, R₁₈ and R₁₉ being, inthis case, a hydrogen atom;

or, if q=1, R₁₇, R₁₈ and R₁₉ each represent a hydrogen atom, and alsothe salts formed by these compounds with bases or acids;

(6) polymers comprising units corresponding to general formula (V) aredescribed, for example, in French patent 1 400 366:

in which R₂₀ represents a hydrogen atom, a CH₃O, CH₃CH₂O or phenylgroup, R₂₁ denotes a hydrogen atom or a lower alkyl group such as methylor ethyl, R₂₂ denotes a hydrogen atom or a C₁-C₆ lower alkyl group suchas methyl or ethyl, R₂₃ denotes a C₁-C₆ lower alkyl group such as methylor ethyl or a group corresponding to the formula: —R₂₄—N(R₂₂)₂, R₂₄representing a group —CH₂—CH₂—, —CH₂—CH₂—CH₂— or —CH₂—CH(CH₃)—, R₂₂having the meanings mentioned above;

(7) Polymers derived from the N-carboxyalkylation of chitosan, such asN-(carboxymethyl)chitosan or N-(carboxybutyl)chitosan, which are soldunder the “Evalsan” name by Jan Dekker.

(8) Amphoteric polymers of the -D-X-D-X- type chosen from:

-   -   a) polymers obtained by reaction of chloroacetic acid or sodium        chloroacetate with compounds comprising at least one unit of        formula:

-D-X-D-X-D-  (VI)

where D denotes a group

and X denotes the symbol E or E′, E or E′, which are identical ordifferent, denoting a divalent group which is a straight- orbranched-chain alkylene group comprising up to 7 carbon atoms in themain chain which is unsubstituted or substituted by hydroxyl groups andwhich can additionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen and sulfur atoms orfrom 1 to 3 aromatic and/or heterocyclic rings; the oxygen, nitrogen andsulfur atoms being present in the form of ether, thioether, sulfoxide,sulfone, sulfonium, alkylamine or alkenylamine groups or hydroxyl,benzylamine, amine oxide, quaternary ammonium, amide, imide, alcohol,ester and/or urethane groups,

-   -   b) polymers of formula:

-D-X-D-X-  (VI′)

where D denotes a group

and X denotes the symbol E or E′ and at least once E′; E having themeaning given above and E′ is a divalent group that is an alkylene groupwith a straight or branched chain having up to 7 carbon atoms in themain chain, which is unsubstituted or substituted with one or morehydroxyl groups and containing one or more nitrogen atoms, the nitrogenatom being substituted with an alkyl chain that is optionallyinterrupted by an oxygen atom and necessarily comprising one or morecarboxyl functions or one or more hydroxyl functions and betainized byreaction with chloroacetic acid or sodium chloroacetate;

(9) (C₁-C₅)alkyl vinyl ether/maleic anhydride copolymers partiallymodified by semiamidation with an N,N-dialkylaminoalkylamine such asN,N-dimethylaminopropylamine or by semiesterification with anN,N-dialkylaminoalkanol. These copolymers can also comprise other vinylcomonomers, such as vinylcaprolactam.

Among the amphoteric fixing polymers described above, the ones that aremost particularly used in step a) according to the invention are thoseof family (3), such as the copolymers whose CTFA name isOctylacrylamide/acrylates/butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, suchas the products sold under the name Amphomer®, Amphomer® LV 71 orLovocryl® 47 by the company National Starch and those of family (4) suchas the copolymers of methyl methacrylate/methyldimethylcarboxymethylammonioethyl methacrylate, sold, for example, underthe name Diaformer Z301 by the company Sandoz.

The nonionic fixing polymer(s) that may be used in step a) according tothe present invention are chosen, for example, from:

-   -   polyalkyloxazolines;    -   vinyl acetate homopolymers;    -   vinyl acetate copolymers, for instance copolymers of vinyl        acetate and of acrylic ester, copolymers of vinyl acetate and of        ethylene, or copolymers of vinyl acetate and of maleic ester,        for example of dibutyl maleate;    -   acrylic ester homopolymers and copolymers, for instance        copolymers of alkyl acrylates and of alkyl methacrylates, such        as the products sold by the company Rohm & Haas under the names        Primal® AC-261 K and Eudragit® NE 30 D, by BASF under the name        8845, or by the company Hoechst under the name Appretan® N9212;    -   copolymers of acrylonitrile and of a nonionic monomer chosen,        for example, from butadiene and alkyl (meth)acrylates; mention        may be made of the products sold under the name CJ 0601 B by the        company Rohm & Haas;    -   styrene homopolymers;    -   styrene copolymers, for instance copolymers of styrene and of        alkyl (meth)acrylate, such as the products Mowilith® LDM 6911,        Mowilith® DM 611 and Mowilith® LDM 6070 sold by the company        Hoechst, and the products Rhodopas® SD 215 and Rhodopas® DS 910        sold by the company Rhône-Poulenc; copolymers of styrene, of        alkyl methacrylate and of alkyl acrylate; copolymers of styrene        and of butadiene; or copolymers of styrene, of butadiene and of        vinylpyridine;    -   polyamides;    -   vinyllactam homopolymers such as vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers        and such as the polyvinylcaprolactam sold under the name        Luviskol® Plus by the company BASF; and    -   vinyllactam copolymers such as a        poly(vinylpyrrolidone/vinyllactam) copolymer sold under the        trade name Luvitec® VPC 55K65W by the company BASF,        poly(vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate) copolymers, such as those        sold under the name PVPVA® S630L by the company ISP, Luviskol®        VA 73, VA 64, VA 55, VA 37 and VA 28 by the company BASF; and        poly(vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate/vinyl propionate)        terpolymers, for instance the product sold under the name        Luviskol® VAP 343 by the company BASF.

The alkyl groups of the nonionic polymers mentioned above preferablycontain from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.

Use may also be made in step a), as fixing polymers, of functionalizedor non-functionalized, cationic, nonionic, anionic or amphotericpolyurethanes, or mixtures thereof.

The polyurethanes that are particularly targeted by the presentinvention are those described in patent applications EP 0 751 162, EP 0637 600, EP 0 648 485 and FR 2 743 297, of which the Applicant Companyis the proprietor, and in patent applications EP 0 656 021 and WO94/03510 from the company BASF and EP 0 619 111 from the companyNational Starch.

As polyurethanes that are particularly suitable in the presentinvention, mention may be made of the products sold under the nameLuviset PUR® by the company BASF.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “conditioningpolymer” means a polymer that is capable of giving keratin fibers and inparticular the hair an improvement of at least one of the followingproperties: softness of feel, straightening effect, ease ofdisentangling.

Preferably, the conditioning polymer(s) are cationic polymer(s) oramphoteric polymer(s), especially Polyquaternium-22.

Preferably, the conditioning polymer(s) are chosen from:

(1) cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammoniumsalts, such as homopolymers or copolymers comprising, as mainconstituent of the chain, units corresponding to formula (VII) or(VIII):

in which k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k+t being equal to 1; R12denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; R10 and R11, independently ofeach other, denote an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, ahydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group has preferably 1 to 5 carbonatoms, a lower (C1-C4) amidoalkyl group, or R10 and R11 may denote,jointly with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclicgroups, such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; Y— is an anion such asbromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate,bisulfate, sulfate or phosphate. These polymers are especially describedin French patent 2 080 759 and in its Certificate of Addition 2 190 406.

R10 and R11, independently of each other, preferably denote an alkylgroup containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

Among the polymers defined above, mention may be made more particularlyof the dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymer sold under the nameMerquat 100 by the company Nalco and its homologues of lowweight-average molecular weights, and the copolymers ofdiallyldimethylammonium chloride and of acrylamide sold under the nameMerquat 550.

(2) quaternary diammonium polymers especially containing repeating unitscorresponding to formula (IX):

in which:

R₁₃, R₁₄, R₁₅ and R₁₆, which may be identical or different, representaliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic groups containing from 1 to 20carbon atoms or lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals, or alternativelyR₁₃, R₁₄, R₁₅ and R₁₆, together or separately, constitute, with thenitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionallycontaining a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or alternativelyR₁₃, R₁₄, R₁₅ and R₁₆ represent a linear or branched C₁-C₆ alkyl groupsubstituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl or amide group or a groupCO—O—R₁₇-D or CO—NH—R₁₇-D where R₁₇ is an alkylene and D is a quaternaryammonium group,

A₁ and B₁ represent polymethylene groups containing from 2 to 20 carbonatoms, which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, andwhich may contain, linked to or intercalated in the main chain, one ormore aromatic rings or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide,sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium,ureido, amide or ester groups, and

X⁻ denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid,

A₁, R₁₃ and R₁₅ can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they areattached, a piperazine ring. In addition, if A1 denotes a linear orbranched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical,B1 may also denote a group (CH2)n-CO-D-OC—(CH2)p-,

n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20 approximately,

in which D denotes:

a) a glycol residue of formula: —O—Z—O—, where Z denotes a linear orbranched hydrocarbon-based radical or a group corresponding to one ofthe following formulae:

—(CH₂—CH₂—O)_(x)—CH₂—CH₂—,

—[CH₂—CH(CH₃)—O]_(y)—CH₂—CH(CH₃)—,

in which x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a definedand unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4representing an average degree of polymerization,

b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative,

c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula: —NH—Y—NH—, where Y denotesa linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical, or else the divalentradical —CH₂—CH₂—S—S—CH₂—CH₂—,

d) a ureylene group of formula —NH—CO—NH—.

Preferably, X⁻ is an anion such as chloride or bromide.

These polymers generally have a number-average molecular weight ofbetween 1000 and 100 000.

Polymers of this type are especially described in French patents 2 320330, 2 270 846, 2 316 271, 2 336 434 and 2 413 907 and U.S. Pat. Nos.2,273,780, 2,375,853, 2,388,614, 2,454,547, 3,206,462, 2,261,002,2,271,378, 3,874,870, 4,001,432, 3,929,990, 3,966,904, 4,005,193,4,025,617, 4,025,627, 4,025,653, 4,026,945 and 4,027,020.

Use may more particularly be made of polymers that are formed fromrepeating units corresponding to formula (X):

in which R₁₈, R₁₉, R₂₀ and R₂₁, which are identical or different, denotean alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atomsapproximately, r and s are integers ranging from 2 to 20 approximately,and X⁻ is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.

A compound of formula (X) that is particularly preferred is the one forwhich R18, R19, R20 and R21 represent a methyl radical and r=3, s=6 andX=Cl, which is known as Hexadimethrine chloride according to INCInomenclature (CTFA).

The quaternary diammonium polymers may also consist of units of formula(XI):

in which:

R22, R23, R24 and R25, which may be identical or different, represent ahydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, β-hydroxyethyl,β-hydroxypropyl or —CH2CH2(OCH2CH2)pOH group,

in which p is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 6, with theproviso that R22, R23, R24 and R25 do not simultaneously represent ahydrogen atom,

t and u, which may be identical or different, are integers between 1 and6,

v is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34,

X⁻ denotes an anion such as a halide,

A denotes a radical of a dihalide or represents preferably—CH2-CH2-O—CH2-CH2-.

Such compounds are described especially in patent application EP-A-122324.

Among these, mention may be made, for example, of the products Mirapol®A 15, Mirapol® AD1, Mirapol® AZ1 and Mirapol® 175, sold by the companyMiranol.

(3) Cationic polysaccharides, especially cationic celluloses andgalactomannan gums.

For celluloses, mention may be made of copolymers of cellulose or ofcellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble monomer comprising aquaternary ammonium, and disclosed especially in U.S. Pat. No.4,131,576, such as hydroxyalkylcelluloses, for example hydroxymethyl-,hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted in particular with amethacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium,methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt.

The products sold corresponding to this definition are, moreparticularly, the products sold under the names Celquat L 200, CelquatLOR and Celquat H 100 by the company Akzo Nobel (Polyquaternium-4).Mention may also be made of the product sold under the name Merquat 280(Polyquaternium-22) by the company Lubrizol.

Surfactants

According to a third embodiment variant of the invention, thecomposition of step a) is a composition containing at least onesurfactant.

According to this third variant, the composition preferably comprisesfrom 30% to 70% by weight of water relative to the total weight of thecomposition.

Preferably, said composition comprises at least one surfactant in acontent ranging from 0.01% to 95%, preferably from 0.1% to 60% andbetter still from 1% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight ofthe composition.

For the purposes of the invention, the surfactant(s) used in step a) maybe chosen from nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, cationicsurfactants and amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.

The surfactant(s) in accordance with the invention may be silicone ornon-silicone surfactants.

The term “anionic surfactant” means a surfactant comprising, as ionic orionizable groups, only anionic groups. These anionic groups arepreferably chosen from the following groups: —C(O)OH, —C(O)O—, —SO₃H,—S(O)₂O—, —OS(O)₂OH, —OS(O)₂O—, —P(O)OH₂, —P(O)₂O—, —P(O)O₂—, —P(OH)₂,═P(O)OH, —P(OH)O—, ═P(O)O—, ═POH, ═PO—; the anionic parts comprising acationic counterion such as those of an alkali metal, an alkaline-earthmetal or an ammonium.

As examples of anionic surfactants that may be used in step a) accordingto the invention, mention may be made of alkyl sulfates, alkyl ethersulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylarylpolyether sulfates,monoglyceride sulfates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates,alkylarylsulfonates, α-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates,alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylether sulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates,alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, salts ofalkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates,D-galactoside-uronic acid salts, alkyl ether carboxylic acid salts,alkylaryl ether carboxylic acid salts, alkylamido ether carboxylic acidsalts, and the corresponding non-salified forms of all these compounds,the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds comprising from 6 to 40carbon atoms and the aryl group denoting a phenyl group.

These compounds can be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.

The salts of C₆-C₂₄ alkyl ether monoesters ofpolyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids can be chosen from C₆-C₂₄ alkylpolyglycoside-citrates, C₆-C₂₄ alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C₆-C₂₄alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates.

When the anionic surfactant(s) are in salt form, they may be chosen fromalkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferablythe sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular aminoalcohol salts or alkaline-earth metal salts such as the magnesium salts.

Examples of amino alcohol salts that may especially be mentioned includemonoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts,monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts,2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediolsalts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.

Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts, and in particular sodium ormagnesium salts, are preferably used.

Among the anionic surfactants mentioned, it is preferred to use(C₆-C₂₄)alkyl sulfates, (C₆-C₂₄)alkyl ether sulfates comprising from 2to 50 ethylene oxide units, especially in the form of alkali metal,ammonium, amino alcohol and alkaline-earth metal salts, or a mixture ofthese compounds.

In particular, it is preferred to use (C₁₂-C₂₀)alkyl sulfates,(C₁₂-C₂₀)alkyl ether sulfates comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxideunits, especially in the form of alkali metal, ammonium, amino alcoholand alkaline-earth metal salts, or a mixture of these compounds. Betterstill, it is preferred to use sodium lauryl ether sulfate containing 2.2mol of ethylene oxide.

Examples of nonionic surfactants that may be used in step a) accordingto the invention are described, for example, in the Handbook ofSurfactants by M. R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow andLondon), 1991, pp. 116-178). They are especially chosen from alcohols,α-diols and (C₁-C₂₀)alkylphenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated,polypropoxylated and/or polyglycerolated, and containing at least onefatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, it beingpossible for the number of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide groupsto especially range from 1 to 200, and for the number of glycerol groupsto especially range from 1 to 30.

Mention may also be made of copolymers of ethylene oxide and propyleneoxide, optionally oxyethylenated sorbitan fatty acid esters, sucrosefatty acid esters, polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid esters, optionallyoxyalkylenated alkyl polyglycosides, alkyl glucoside esters, mono- ordialkanolamides, derivatives of N-alkyl glucamine and of N-acylmethylglucamine, aldobionamides, oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenatedsilicones and amine oxides.

The nonionic surfactant(s) used in step a) are more particularly chosenfrom monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated, monoglycerolated orpolyglycerolated nonionic surfactants. The oxyalkylene units are moreparticularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or a combinationthereof, preferably oxyethylene units.

Examples of oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants that may be mentionedinclude:

-   -   oxyalkylenated (C₈-C₂₄)alkylphenols,    -   saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated        C₈-C₃₀ alcohols, especially such as Deceth-3 or Deceth-5,    -   saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated        C₈-C₃₀ amides,    -   esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C₈-C₃₀        acids and of polyethylene glycols,    -   polyoxyethylenated esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or        branched, C₈-C₃₀ acids and of sorbitol,    -   saturated or unsaturated, oxyethylenated plant oils,    -   condensates of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide, inter        alia, alone or as mixtures,    -   oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated silicones.

The surfactant(s) bear a number of moles of ethylene oxide and/or ofpropylene oxide preferably ranging from 1 to 100 and better still from 2to 50. Advantageously, the nonionic surfactant(s) do not comprise anyoxypropylene units.

In accordance with a preferred embodiment of the invention, the nonionicsurfactant(s) used in step a) are chosen from oxyethylenated C₈-C₃₀alcohols and polyoxyethylenated esters of saturated or unsaturated,linear or branched, C₈-C₃₀ acids and of sorbitol.

As examples of monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionicsurfactants, monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C₈-C₄₀ alcohols arepreferably used in step a).

In particular, the monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C₈-C₄₀ alcoholscorrespond to formula (A1) below:

RO—[CH₂—CH(CH₂OH)—O]_(m)—H  (A1)

in which R represents a linear or branched C₈-C₄₀ and preferably C₈-C₃₀alkyl or alkenyl radical, and m represents a number ranging from 1 to 30and preferably from 1 to 10.

As examples of compounds that are suitable for use in step a) in thecontext of the invention, mention may be made of lauryl alcoholcontaining 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Lauryl Ether),lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Oleyl Ether), oleyl alcoholcontaining 2 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 Oleyl Ether),cetearyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol, cetearyl alcoholcontaining 6 mol of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol containing 6 mol ofglycerol, and octadecanol containing 6 mol of glycerol.

The alcohol may represent a mixture of alcohols in the same way that thevalue of m represents a statistical value, which means that, in acommercial product, several species of polyglycerolated fatty alcoholsmay coexist in the form of a mixture.

Among the monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated alcohols, it is moreparticularly preferred to use the C₈/C₁₀ alcohol containing 1 mol ofglycerol, the C₁₀/C₁₂ alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol and the C₁₂alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol.

Preferably, the nonionic surfactant(s) are chosen from oxyethylenated ornon-oxyethylenated alkanolamides and oxyethylenated fatty alcohols.

The cationic surfactant(s) that may be used in step a) comprise, forexample, optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiaryfatty amine salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of quaternary ammonium salts that may especially be mentionedinclude:

-   -   those corresponding to the general formula (A2) below:

in which formula (A2):

R₈ to R₁₁, which may be identical or different, represent a linear orbranched aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or anaromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, it being understood that atleast one of the groups R₈ to R₁₁ comprises from 8 to 30 carbon atomsand preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms; and

-   -   X⁻ represents an organic or mineral anionic counterion, such as        that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates,        (C₁-C₄)alkyl sulfates, (C₁-C₄)alkyl- or        (C₁-C₄)alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and        ethyl sulfate.

The aliphatic groups of R₈ to R₁₁ may also comprise heteroatomsespecially such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens.

The aliphatic groups of R₈ to R₁₁ are chosen, for example, from C₁-C₃₀alkyl or alkenyl, C₁-C₃₀ alkoxy, polyoxy(C₂-C₆)alkylene, C₁-C₃₀alkylamide, (C₁₂-C₂₂)alkylamido(C₂-C₆)alkyl, (C₁₂-C₂₂)alkyl acetate, andC₁-C₃₀ hydroxyalkyl groups; X⁻ is an anionic counterion chosen fromhalides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C₁-C₄)alkyl sulfates, and(C₁-C₄)alkylsulfonates or (C₁-C₄)alkylarylsulfonates.

Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (A2), preference is givenfirstly to tetraalkylammonium chlorides, for instancedialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which thealkyl group contains approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, inparticular behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammoniumchloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, benzyldimethylstearylammoniumchloride, or else, secondly, distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammoniummethosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate ordistearoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, or else, lastly,palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride orstearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium chloride, sold underthe name Ceraphyl® 70 by the company Van Dyk;

-   -   quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, for instance those of        formula (A3) below:

in which formula (A3):

R₁₂ represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbonatoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow;

R₁₃ represents a hydrogen atom, a C₁-C₄ alkyl group or an alkenyl oralkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms;

R₁₄ represents a C₁-C₄ alkyl group;

R₁₅ represents a hydrogen atom or a C₁-C₄ alkyl group;

X⁻ represents an organic or mineral anionic counterion, such as thatchosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, lactates, (C₁-C₄)alkylsulfates, (C₁-C₄)alkyl- or (C₁-C₄)alkylaryl sulfonates.

Preferably, R₁₂ and R₁₃ denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groupscomprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallowfatty acids, R₁₄ denotes a methyl group and R₁₅ denotes a hydrogen atom.Such a product is sold, for example, under the name Rewoquat® W 75 bythe company Rewo;

-   -   quaternary diammonium or triammonium salts, in particular of        formula (A4) below:

in which formula (A4):

R₁₆ denotes an alkyl group comprising approximately from 16 to 30 carbonatoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted with one ormore oxygen atoms;

R₁₇ is chosen from hydrogen, an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4carbon atoms or a group —(CH₂)₃—N⁺(R_(16a))(R_(17a))(R_(18a)), X⁻;

R_(16a), R_(17a), R_(18a), R₁₈, R₁₉, R₂₀ and R₂₁, which may be identicalor different, are chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl group comprisingfrom 1 to 4 carbon atoms; and

-   -   X⁻, which may be identical or different, represents an organic        or mineral anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides,        acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C₁-C₄)alkyl sulfates,        (C₁-C₄)alkyl- or (C₁-C₄)alkylaryl sulfonates, in particular        methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.

Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P, provided by the companyFinetex (Quaternium 89), and Finquat CT, provided by the company Finetex(Quaternium 75);

-   -   quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester        functions, such as those of formula (A5) below:

in which formula (A5):

R₂₂ is chosen from C₁-C₆ alkyl groups and C₁-C₆ hydroxyalkyl ordihydroxyalkyl groups,

R₂₃ is chosen from:

-   -   the group

-   -   saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C₁-C₂₂        hydrocarbon groups R₂₇,    -   a hydrogen atom,

R₂₅ is chosen from:

-   -   the group

-   -   saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C₁-C₆        hydrocarbon groups R₂₉,    -   a hydrogen atom,

R₂₄, R₂₆ and R₂₈, which may be identical or different, are chosen fromlinear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C₇-C₂₁ hydrocarbon-basedgroups;

r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are integers rangingfrom 2 to 6,

r1 and t1, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1,with r2+r1=2r and t1+t2=2t,

y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10,

x and z, which are identical or different, are integers having valuesfrom 0 to 10,

X⁻ represents an organic or mineral anionic counterion,

with the proviso that the sum x+y+z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0then R₂₃ denotes R₂₇, and that when z is 0 then R₂₅ denotes R₂₉.

The alkyl groups R₂₂ may be linear or branched, and more particularlylinear.

Preferably, R₂₂ denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropylgroup and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.

Advantageously, the sum x+y+z is from 1 to 10.

When R₂₃ is an R₂₇ hydrocarbon group, it may be long and have from 12 to22 carbon atoms or be short and have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

When R₂₅ is an R₂₉ hydrocarbon-based group, it preferably contains 1 to3 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, R₂₄, R₂₆ and R₂₈, which are identical or different, arechosen from saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C₁₁-C₂₁hydrocarbon groups and more particularly from saturated or unsaturatedand linear or branched C₁₁-C₂₁ alkyl and alkenyl groups.

Preferably, x and z, which are identical or different, have values of 0or 1. Advantageously, y is equal to 1.

Preferably, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are equalto 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.

The anionic counterion X⁻ is preferably a halide, such as chloride,bromide or iodide; a (C₁-C₄)alkyl sulfate or a (C₁-C₄)alkyl- or a(C₁-C₄)alkylarylsulfonate. However, it is possible to usemethanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from anorganic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion that iscompatible with the ammonium containing an ester function.

The anionic counterion X⁻ is even more particularly chloride, methylsulfate or ethyl sulfate.

Use is made more particularly in the composition according to theinvention of the ammonium salts of formula (A5) in which:

-   -   R₂₂ denotes a methyl or ethyl group,    -   x and y are equal to 1,    -   z is equal to 0 or 1,    -   r, s and t are equal to 2,    -   R₂₃ is chosen from:

the group

methyl, ethyl or C₁₄-C₂₂ hydrocarbon-based groups,

a hydrogen atom,

-   -   R₂₅ is chosen from:

the group

a hydrogen atom,

-   -   R₂₄, R₂₆ and R₂₈, which may be identical or different, are        chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C₁₃-C₁₇        hydrocarbon-based groups, and preferably from linear or        branched, saturated or unsaturated C₁₃-C₁₇ alkyl and alkenyl        groups.

Advantageously, the hydrocarbon-based radicals are linear.

Among the compounds of formula (A5), examples that may be mentionedinclude salts, especially the chloride or methyl sulfate, ofdiacyloxyethyldimethylammonium,diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium,monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium,triacyloxyethylmethylammonium ormonoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. Theacyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are obtainedmore particularly from a plant oil, such as palm oil or sunflower oil.When the compound comprises several acyl groups, the latter can beidentical or different.

These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification oftriethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, an alkyldiethanolamine or analkyldiisopropanolamine, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, with fattyacids or with fatty acid mixtures of plant or animal origin, or bytransesterification of the methyl esters thereof. This esterification isfollowed by a quaternization by means of an alkylating agent such as analkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate,preferably dimethyl or diethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methylpara-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.

Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart® by thecompany Henkel, Stepanquat® by the company Stepan, Noxamium® by thecompany Ceca or Rewoquat® WE 18 by the company Rewo-Witco.

The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, amixture of quaternary ammonium monoester, diester and triester saltswith a weight majority of diester salts.

Use may also be made of the ammonium salts comprising at least one esterfunctional group described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,874,554 and U.S. Pat. No.4,137,180.

Use may be made of behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride soldby KAO under the name Quatarmin BTC 131.

Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester functioncontain two ester functions.

Among the cationic surfactants that may be present in the compositionaccording to the invention, it is more particularly preferred to choosecetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium anddipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof,and more particularly behenyltrimethylammonium chloride,cetyltrimethylammonium chloride and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammoniummethosulfate, and mixtures thereof.

The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) used in step a) arepreferably non-silicone surfactants. They may especially be aliphaticsecondary or tertiary amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic group isa linear or branched chain containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms andcontaining at least one water-solubilizing anionic group, for instance acarboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group; mentionmay also be made of (C₈-C₂₀)alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines,(C₈-C₂₀)alkylamido(C₆-C₈)alkylbetaines or(C₈-C₂₀)alkylamido(C₆-C₈)alkylsulfobetaines; and mixtures thereof.

Among the optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic aminederivatives that may be used, as defined above, mention may also be madeof the compounds of respective structures (A6) and (A7) below:

R_(a)—C(O)—NH—CH₂—CH₂—N⁺(R_(b))(R_(c))—CH₂C(O)O⁻,M⁺,X⁻  (A6)

in which formula (A6):

-   -   Ra represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an        acid Ra-COOH preferably present in hydrolyzed copra oil, or a        heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;    -   Rb represents a β-hydroxyethyl group; and    -   Rc represents a carboxymethyl group;    -   M+ represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal        or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an        ion derived from an organic amine, and    -   X⁻ represents an organic or mineral anionic counterion, such as        that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates,        (C₁-C₄)alkyl sulfates, (C₁-C₄)alkyl- or (C₁-C₄)alkylaryl        sulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate; or        alternatively M⁺ and X⁻ are absent;

R_(a′)—C(O)—NH—CH₂—CH₂—N(B)(B′)  (A7)

in which formula (A7):

-   -   B represents the group —CH₂—CH₂—O—X′;    -   B′ represents the group —(CH2)zY′, with z=1 or 2;    -   X′ represents the group —CH₂—C(O)OH, —CH₂—C(O)OZ′,        —CH₂—CH₂—C(O)OH or —CH₂—CH₂—C(O)OZ′, or a hydrogen atom;    -   Y′ represents the group —C(O)OH, —C(O)OZ′, —CH₂—CH(OH)—SO₃H or        the group —CH₂—CH(OH)—SO₃—Z′;    -   Z′ represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal        or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an        ion derived from an organic amine;    -   R_(a′) represents a C₁₀-C₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group derived from        an acid    -   R_(a′)—C(O)OH, which is preferably present in copra oil or in        hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl group, especially a C₁₇ group        and its iso form, or an unsaturated C₁₇ group.

These compounds of formulae (A6) and (A7) are classified in the CTFAdictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodiumcocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodiumcaprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodiumcocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodiumcaprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate,lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid.

By way of example, mention may be made of the cocoamphodiacetate sold bythe company Rhodia under the trade name Miranol® C2M Concentrate.

Use may also be made of compounds of formula (A′2):

Ra″-NH—CH(Y″)—(CH₂)_(n)—C(O)—NH—(CH₂)_(n′)—N(R(R_(e)))  (A′2)

in which formula:

-   -   Y″ represents the group —C(O)OH, —C(O)OZ″, —CH₂—CH(OH)—SO₃H or        the group —CH₂—CH(OH)—SO₃—Z″;    -   Rd and Re represent, independently of each other, a C1-C4 alkyl        or hydroxyalkyl radical;    -   Z″ represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal        or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an        ion derived from an organic amine;    -   Ra″ represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an        acid Ra′-C(O)OH, which is preferably present in hydrolyzed        linseed oil or copra oil.    -   n and n′ denote, independently of each other, an integer ranging        from 1 to 3. Among the compounds of formula (A′2), mention may        be made of the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under        the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and sold by        the company Chimex under the name Chimexane HB.

Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants mentioned above, use ispreferably made of (C₈-C₂₀)alkylbetaines such as cocobetaine,(C₈-C₂₀)alkylamido(C₃-C₈)alkylbetaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine,compounds of formula (B′2) such as the sodium salt of diethylaminopropyllaurylaminosuccinamate (INCI name: sodium diethylaminopropylcocoaspartamide), and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the surfactant(s) may be chosen from nonionic surfactants,amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants and cationic surfactants, whichmay be silicone or non-silicone surfactants.

Steps b) and c)

The cosmetic process for treating keratin fibers according to theinvention especially comprises steps b) and c) consisting, respectively,in applying a mechanical tension to these keratin fibers and in exposingthem under mechanical tension to microwaves at a pressure ranging from50 000 to 250 000 Pa and better still from 75 000 to 150 000 Pa, betterstill at atmospheric pressure in the presence of at least one solvent invapor form on contact with said keratin fibers and without there beingcomplete drying of the keratin fibers throughout the entire exposure tothe microwaves.

In the event of complete drying in step c), no shaping is obtained.

Consequently, especially when steps a), b) and c) are performed in thisorder, a step consisting in applying again a certain amount of thecomposition from step a) or a certain amount of solvent may be performedjust before step c) (in order to ensure that the keratin fibers are keptmoist).

It is understood that when such a step of applying a composition fromstep a) is again performed before step c), said composition contains thesame substance as that which had been applied during step a), i.e.:

-   -   it contains at least one fatty substance when the composition        from step a) contains at least one fatty substance,    -   it contains at least one non-silicone polymer when the        composition from step a) contains at least one non-silicone        polymer, and    -   it contains at least one surfactant when the composition from        step a) contains at least one surfactant.

During step b), the microwave radiation may or may not already exist,and this is likewise the case for the solvent in vapor form. In otherwords, step b) is prior to or simultaneous with step c).

The expression “mechanical tension applied to the hair” should beunderstood as meaning a mechanical tension applied to at least a portionof the length of said hair.

The term “microwaves” should be understood as meaning electromagneticradiation with a frequency of between 500 MHz and 300 GHz.

The microwave frequency used in step c) is preferentially between 500MHz and 300 GHz, for example ranging from 500 MHz to 10 GHz and inparticular from 915 MHz to 2.45 GHz.

The microwave power used in step c) may range from 100 to 2000 W,preferably from 100 to 500 W and more particularly from 180 to 450 W.

The microwaves may be generated by a microwave generator, for example asolid-state generator such as a magnetron.

The expression “without there being complete drying of the hair” meansthat after step c) the hair feels wet. The hair may thus conserve atleast 1%, especially at least 2% or even 5% of the weight of the liquidcompounds (solvents) present, before step c), on contact therewith,these liquid compounds adding to the natural humidity of the hair beforetreatment.

The mechanical tension may be applied by means of a device for applyinga mechanical tension, this device possibly being configured to induceflexure, traction, torsion and/or compression, for example, on the hair.The device for applying a mechanical tension may exert mechanicalconstraints simultaneously on one or more locks of hair.

The mechanical tension device may be, for example, a curler.

The solvent in vapor form is entirely generated by evaporating acompound present, before emission of the microwaves, on contact with thetreated hair.

The treated hair should never be totally dry throughout the entireaction of the microwaves. In other words, the hair should always beimpregnated with the solvent during said exposure.

To facilitate the impregnation, the solvent may be sprayed onbeforehand.

Step c) of the process according to the invention may take place in achamber optionally along with step b); in addition, steps b) and c) maybe performed in one and the same chamber. The chamber may form amicrowave shield.

The chamber may, during the process according to the invention,especially during step c), contain the hair to be treated and the devicefor applying a mechanical tension.

The term “contain the hair” should be understood as meaning contain thehair over all or part of its length.

The chamber may cover the hair over a length, for example, of greaterthan or equal to 5 cm. Thus, a length of at least 5 cm of hair may betreated in the chamber.

The chamber may be immobile relative to the hair treated during theemission of the microwaves or mobile relative to the hair, for examplebeing moved along the hair to be treated.

The microwaves may be emitted, where appropriate, from an antenna.

As indicated previously, the chamber may be configured so as not torelease into the external medium the solvent in vapor form, or so as torelease only a small amount thereof, for example by means of recyclingof the solvent, the recycling taking place, for example, in vapor orliquid form, after condensation of the solvent.

The chamber may comprise a material configured to absorb the solvent invapor form. The chamber may comprise a cold wall on which the solventcondenses and/or a loop for sucking up solvent in vapor form.

Thus, the process according to the invention may comprise, during and/orafter step c), a step of collecting solvent, for example in vapor and/orliquid form and/or absorbed on a material.

The chamber is advantageously substantially microwave-leaktight. Inother words, the chamber may be configured to contain the microwavesemitted. Step c) may thus take place in a chamber that ismicrowave-leaktight.

The chamber may comprise at least one seal of an electrically conductivematerial, which is, for example, elastically deformable, making itpossible to block the microwaves used during step c) while allowing thehair to leave the chamber, if necessary. The seal may comprise, forexample, a foam filled with electrically conductive particles, a brushformed from electrically conductive bristles or a comb comprising metalteeth.

When the chamber is in the form of a hood, the chamber may compriseelectromagnetic shielding through which the treated hair may pass. Suchshielding makes it possible to treat the user's hair while protectingthe user's skull from the microwaves emitted.

The electromagnetic shielding may be formed, for example, by a grate ora metallic grating.

The treatment device for performing the process may comprise an audibleand/or visible warning system, for example for warning the user of amicrowave leak out of the chamber and/or of an excessive temperatureinside the chamber. The treating device advantageously comprises asafety system for preventing the emission of microwaves while thechamber is not closed and/or in the event of abnormal functioning, forexample of excessive temperature and/or in the absence of solvent.

The treating device may be configured to control the duration ofemission of the microwaves, so as not to reach a duration of treatmentthat is liable to damage the hair.

The process according to the invention may comprise, before step c), astep of detecting the closure of the chamber. For example, a contactoris actuated when the chamber is closed.

The emission of the microwaves may be conditioned to the detection ofclosure of the chamber.

The process according to the invention may also comprise a step ofdetecting the emplacement of the hair intended to be treated, beforestep c). This detection step may be performed, for example, by anoptical sensor and/or a mechanical feeler.

The process according to the invention may comprise, for example duringstep c), a step of measuring the temperature to which the treated hairis subjected. This temperature measurement step may be performed by athermometer without contact with the hair.

The chamber, for example when it is defined by tongs, may include all orpart of the device for applying the mechanical tension.

The device for applying the mechanical tension may comprise one or morecurlers or other rolling device, which are, for example, electricallyinsulating and compatible with exposure to microwaves, jaws and/or oneor more combs.

The treating device may be configured to allow the use of severaldifferent constraint-application devices, serving, for example, to curlthe hair or, on the contrary, to straighten it. The devices may beinterchangeable by the user.

The treating device may be arranged to automatically recognize theconstraint-application device used, where appropriate, for example bymeans of electrical contacts or one or more switches.

The device for applying the mechanical tension may be configured so asto place the treated hair flat during the exposure to the microwaves.

Irrespective of the embodiment under consideration, the hair treated instep b) may be subjected to one or more mechanical constraints. Themechanical constraint(s) may be chosen from bending, straightening,compression, torsion and/or traction constraints. The constraintsapplied may be intended to curl the hair or, on the contrary, tostraighten it. The constraints applied may also be intended to curl thehair over one portion of its length and to straighten it over anotherportion of its length.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, step b) isperformed by applying at least one torsion, traction or compressionconstraint on the keratin materials.

The treating device may comprise, within the same hand-held piece, themicrowave generator and the device for applying the mechanical tension.The term “hand-held piece” denotes a piece manipulated by the user inone hand during the hair treatment.

When the treating device comprises tongs, the microwaves may be emittedby only one of the arms of the tongs or by all the arms of the tongs.

As conveying means that may be used for conveying the microwaves fromthe generator to the chamber, mention may be made of waveguides, forexample a flexible coaxial cable less than 10 m long, preferably lessthan 5 m long, less than 5 cm and preferably less than 2 cm in diameter,and assemblies comprising at least one antenna for emittingelectromagnetic radiation and at least one antenna for receivingelectromagnetic radiation.

The microwave generator and/or the chamber may be configured to subjectthe hair treated in step c) to microwave radiation that is variable inits spatial distribution within the chamber, for example rotating.Rotating microwave radiation may advantageously make it possible toexpose the treated hair more uniformly to said radiation and thus toreduce the risk of local overexposure to the radiation.

The solvent(s) are, for example, liquids with a boiling point of lessthan 200° C.

Said solvent may be, for example, and preferably is contained in thecomposition comprising at least one fatty substance from step a).

Said solvent may comprise and in particular may consist of a polarprotic liquid medium with a dielectric constant at 20° C. of greaterthan or equal to 8, preferably greater than or equal to 10 and inparticular greater than or equal to 15.

According to a preferred embodiment, the solvents used comprise water.Even more preferentially, the solvent used is water.

According to another preferred embodiment, this solvent is propanol orisopropanol.

According to yet another preferred embodiment, the solvents consist of amixture of water and of propanol or isopropanol.

In one embodiment, the solvent in vapor form may be generated by directheating of the solvent in liquid form by the microwaves.

The solvents in vapor form may have, in the region of and/or in contactwith the hair, during step c), a temperature of between 80 and 200° C.and preferably between 100 and 150° C., for example between 120 and 150°C.

The pressure to which the treated hair is subjected, during step c) isclose to atmospheric pressure, and may range from 50 000 to 250 000 Paand better still from 75 000 to 150 000 Pa.

The hair may, during part or all of step c), be present in a volumedefined by at least one wall of a material, said material allowing themicrowaves to pass through the wall and limiting the evaporation of thecompound present, before emission of the microwaves, on contact with thetreated hair.

The use of such a material may advantageously limit the drying of thehair during the treatment according to the invention.

Said material may comprise and in particular may consist of cellophaneand/or may have a low porosity. In one variant, the material may beporous and in particular may be a mesh.

Irrespective of the embodiment under consideration, the duration of stepc) may range from 1 second to 60 minutes, preferably from 1 second to 30minutes, better still from 30 seconds to 20 minutes and moreparticularly from 3 to 15 minutes.

Irrespective of the embodiment under consideration, step c) may berepeated, for example between 0 and 10 times and preferentially between0 and 5 times.

DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES

The invention may be better understood from reading the followingdetailed description of nonlimiting implementation examples thereof, andwith reference to the attached drawing, in which:

FIGS. 1 to 5 schematically and partially show embodiments of treatingdevices according to the invention, and

FIGS. 6, 7 and 9 to 13 show locks of hair that have undergone variouscosmetic treatments according to the process of the invention,

FIG. 8 schematically and partially shows an embodiment according to theinvention.

FIG. 1 shows a treating device 100 comprising a hand-held piece 3comprising a chamber in which is received the hair to be treated,connected via a hose 2 to a base station 1 comprising a microwavegenerator.

The hose 2 may comprise a waveguide.

FIG. 2 shows a detail of FIG. 1.

The microwaves 70 conveyed into the hand-held piece 3 by the waveguide 2make it possible to heat the liquid solvent present on the hair to betreated and to change it into the form of solvent in vapor form. In thisembodiment, a device for applying a mechanical tension and a lock ofhair (not shown) are present in the hand-held piece 3 and the hair isexposed both to the microwaves and to the solvent in vapor form 80. Atemperature detector 150 may be present in order to measure thetemperature of the treated lock of hair and a control system, forexample a microprocessor system, may make it possible to interrupt ormodify the emission of the microwaves in the event of a detectedtemperature being above a predefined threshold.

FIG. 3 shows an embodiment in which the treating chamber is formed byclosing tongs constituting all or part of the hand-held piece 3. Thetongs make it possible, when open, to introduce between the arms one ormore locks of hair to be treated. Each arm defines, for example, half ofthe chamber.

The microwaves may be emitted by only one or by both arms of the tongs.

A sensor (not shown) may inform the treating device regarding the factthat the tongs are closed and the emission of the microwaves may beconditioned to the detection of this closure.

The mechanical tension applied to the hair may be a traction so as tostraighten it.

In all the preceding examples, the means for conveying the microwavesmay comprise an emitting antenna 10 and a receiving antenna 15, asillustrated in FIG. 4.

FIG. 5 moreover shows a lock of hair M present in a treating chamber ofthe hand-held piece 3. The chamber is microwave-leaktight and comprises,to this end, for example, electrically conductive foam seals 200 whichreflect the microwave radiation where the hair leaves the chamber.

In one variant, not shown, the microwave generator 1 may, for example,be present in the chamber and/or the device for applying a mechanicaltension.

FIG. 8 shows an embodiment in which a lock of hair M is present in avolume delimited by a wall 300 of a material, said material allowing themicrowaves 70 to pass through the wall, and containing the generatedvapor 80.

The contents of the vapor 80 advantageously allow the hair M to bemoistened during the treatment.

Said material comprises and in particular consists of a cellophane film.In one variant, the material may be porous and in particular may be amesh.

Steps d) and e)

The process according to the invention may also comprise at least oneadditional pretreatment step d) and/or one additional post-treatmentstep e), these steps consisting in performing on the keratin materialsat least one standard treatment chosen from oxidation dyeing, directdyeing, bleaching, permanent reshaping based on one or more reducingagents, for example thiol reducing agents, or based on one or morealkali metal or alkaline-earth metal hydroxides, a care treatment, amask and/or a shampoo.

Advantageously, when the composition from step a) is a compositioncontaining at least one fatty substance, the composition(s) appliedduring the additional step(s) d) are free of fatty substances.

Advantageously, when the composition from step a) is a compositioncontaining at least one fatty substance, the composition(s) appliedduring the additional step(s) e) are free of fatty substances.

Advantageously, when the composition from step a) is a compositioncontaining at least one non-silicone polymer, the composition(s) appliedduring the additional step(s) d) are free of non-silicone polymer.

Advantageously, when the composition from step a) is a compositioncontaining at least one non-silicone polymer, the composition(s) appliedduring the additional step(s) e) are free of non-silicone polymer.

Advantageously, when the composition from step a) is a compositioncontaining at least one surfactant, the composition(s) applied duringthe additional step(s) d) are free of surfactant.

Advantageously, when the composition from step a) is a compositioncontaining at least one surfactant, the composition(s) applied duringthe additional step(s) e) are free of surfactant.

Step d) takes place before steps a), b) and c).

Step e) takes place after steps a), b) and c).

When an additional pretreatment step d) and an additional post-treatmentstep e) are performed, these steps may be identical or different, andare preferably different.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the additionalstep is a pretreatment step d).

When the additional step is a step comprising permanent reshaping basedon one or more reducing agents, then the step may be followed by a stepcomprising the application to the hair of at least one fixingcomposition comprising one or more oxidizing agents.

Advantageously, the composition(s) applied during the additional step(s)d) are free of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal hydroxides at a pHabove 12 or of reducing agents for cleaving the disulfide bonds.

Advantageously, the composition(s) applied during the additional step(s)e) are free of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal hydroxides at a pHabove 12 or of reducing agents for cleaving the disulfide bonds.

The duration of step d) may vary according to the desired shapingperformance qualities and the nature of the hair, for example.

The composition used in step a) and the optional compositions used inthe additional steps d) and e) may be applied while the hair is presentin the chamber, for example by means of a suitable application system.The application system comprises, for example, a pad, a comb, one ormore dispensing orifices or a spray nozzle, arranged in the chamber oroutside it, for example on the path of the hair leaving or entering thechamber.

The composition used in step d) may be subjected to the microwaveradiation.

The treatment device may comprise a sensor that is sensitive to acharacteristic of the hair, for example the color, the mechanicalstrength, the surface state or the humidity, and the treating device maycontrol at least one parameter of the treatment as a function of thecharacteristic thus detected, for example the microwave energy, thesolvent temperature, the duration of the treatment and/or the mechanicalconstraint exerted.

According to another of its aspects, the present invention relates to ahair treatment device for performing the process as defined above,comprising:

-   -   a device for applying a mechanical tension to the hair,    -   a microwave generator,    -   at least one composition comprising at least one substance        chosen from fatty substances, silicone polymers and surfactants.

All the characteristics stated with regard to the above process apply tothe treating device.

Thus, the treating device may, for example, define a treating chamberforming a shield to microwaves.

All the compositions used in the process according to the invention maybe, independently of each other, in the form of a thickened orunthickened lotion, a cream, a gel or a mousse.

The examples that follow are given as nonlimiting illustrations of thepresent invention.

EXAMPLES Example 1: Process for Durably Curling the Hair Using aComposition Containing at Least One Fatty Substance

A 1 g lock 20 cm long of moistened natural straight hair was treated inthe following manner.

The lock is shampooed and dried manually, and an aqueous composition inaccordance with the invention comprising at least one fatty substance isthen applied, with a minimum bath ratio of 2 to 1, uniformly along thelock.

The lock is then rolled up on and fixed to a curler.

The lock is then placed in a confined medium (such as cellophane) ornot, and is then treated by the emission of microwaves via a householdmicrowave device (Samsung Combi CE 137nem; 2.45 GHz) for 15 minutes witha power of 300 W.

The end of the treatment is followed by rinsing or shampooing, dependingon the case.

The table that follows indicates the aqueous composition applied.

Amount in weight percentage (commercial Constituents - product as is)Cetearyl alcohol (Ecorol 68/50 P from 5 Ecogreen Oleochemicals) Cetylesters 1 (Crodamol MS-PA-(MH) from Croda) Behentrimonium chloride(Varisoft BT 85 1 (flaked) from Evonik Goldschmidt) Amodimethicone (and)Trideceth-6 (and) 1.5 cetrimonium chloride (Xiameter MEM-8299 Emulsionfrom Dow Corning) Water qs 100

This process allows shaping of the lock (which is initially straight),the lock obtained is durably curled, and a gain in the volume of thelock is also observed.

The result is reported in FIG. 6.

Example 2: Process for Durably Curling the Hair Using a CompositionContaining at Least One Fatty Substance

A 1 g lock 20 cm long of moistened natural straight hair was treated ina manner similar to that of Example 1, except that the aqueouscomposition applied here is that detailed in the following table.

Amount in weight percentage (commercial Constituents-INCI name productas is) Beeswax 1.5 (White beeswax GR B 889 from Koster Keunen) Mineraloil (and) microcrystalline wax 6.5 (and) paraffin (Vaseline BlancheCodex 236 from Aiglon) Mineral oil 16 (Blandol from Sonneborn) Cetearylalcohol (Ecorol 68/50 P from 2 Ecogreen Oleochemicals) Propylene glycolUSP/EP from Dow 5 Chemical Water qs 100

This process allows shaping of the lock, the lock obtained is durablycurled, and a gain in the volume of the lock is also observed.

The result is reported in FIG. 7.

Example 3: Process for Durably Curling the Hair Using a CompositionContaining at Least One Non-Silicone Polymer

A 1 g lock 20 cm long of moistened natural straight hair was treated inthe following manner.

The lock is shampooed and dried manually, and an aqueous composition inaccordance with the invention comprising at least one non-siliconepolymer is then applied, with a minimum bath ratio of 2 to 1, uniformlyalong the lock.

The lock is then rolled up on and fixed to a curler.

The lock is then placed in a confined medium (such as cellophane), andis then treated by the emission of microwaves via a household microwavedevice (Samsung Combi CE 137nem; 2.45 GHz) for 5 minutes with a power of450 W.

The end of the treatment is followed by rinsing or shampooing, dependingon the case.

The table that follows indicates the aqueous composition applied.

Amount in weight percentage (commercial Constituents product as is)Potato starch modified (Structure Solanace 0.3 from Akzo Nobel) Carbomer(Carbopol Ultrez 10 Polymer 0.45 from Lubrizol) Hydroxypropyl guar(Jaguar HP 105 from 0.25 Rhodia) Polyquaternium-4 (Celquat LOR from 0.3Akzo Nobel) Behentrimonium chloride (Varisoft BT 85 0.5 (flaked) fromEvonik Goldschmidt) Cetyl alcohol (and) behentrimonium 0.1 methosulfate(and) Quaternium-33 (Cutissential Behenyl 18MEA-PA-(MH) from Croda)Propylene glycol (Propylene glycol 2.5 USP/EP from Dow Chemical)2-Oleamido-1,3-octadecanediol (Mexanyl 0.01 GZ from Chimex)Quaternium-87 (Varisoft W 575 PG N from 0.05 Evonik Goldschmidt)Cyclopentasiloxane (and) dimethiconol 6 (Xiameter PMX-1501 Fluid fromDow Corning) PEG/PPG-17/18 Dimethicone 0.5 Amodimethicone (and)Trideceth-6 (and) 0.25 cetrimonium chloride Triethanolamine 0.6 Water qs100

This process allows shaping of the lock (which is initially straight),the lock obtained is durably curled, and a gain in the volume of thelook is also observed.

The result is reported in FIG. 9.

Example 4: Process for Durably Curling the Hair Using a CompositionContaining at Least One Non-Silicon Polymer

A 1 g lock 20 cm long of moistened natural straight hair was treated ina manner similar to that of Example 1, using the aqueous compositiondetailed in the following table.

Amount in weight percentage (commercial Constituents product as is)Methylisothiazolinone (Neolone 950 Preservative 0.1 from Rohm & Haas(Dow Chemical)) Caprylyl glycol (Dermosoft Octiol from Dr. 0.4Straetmans) Acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer 1.4 (PemulenTR-1 Polymer from Lubrizol) VP/VA copolymer (Luviskol VA 64 W from BASF)10 VP/dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer 12 (Copolymer 845-O fromISP (Ashland)) PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil (Eumulgin HRE 40 1 fromCognis (BASF)) Niacinamide (Niacinamide USP from Lonza) 0.1 Panthenol(Dexpanthenol from Daiichi Fine 0.1 Chemical) Water qs 100

This process allows shaping of the lock, the lock obtained is durablycurled, and a gain in the volume of the lock is also observed.

The result is reported in FIG. 10.

Example 5: Process for Durably Curling the Hair Using a CompositionContaining at Least One Non-Silicone Polymer

A 1 g lock 20 cm long of moistened natural straight hair was treated ina manner similar to that of Example 1, using the aqueous compositiondetailed in the following table.

Amount in weight percentage (commercial Constituents product as is)Ethanolamine (Monoethanolamine Care from BASF) 0.47 Oleth-30 (Eumulgin O30 from Cognis (BASF)) 4.5 Laureth-12 (Rewopal 12 from EvonikGoldschmidt) 6.3 Deceth-5 (Eumulgin BL 589 from Cognis (BASF)) 4.5Deceth-3 (Eumulgin BL 309 from Cognis (BASF)) 17.2 Oleyl alcohol (HDOcenol 80/85 V from Cognis 1.8 (BASF)) Trideceth-2 carboxamide MEA(Amidet A15/LAO 4 55 from KAO) Hexadimethrine chloride (Mexomere PO from3 Chimex) Polyquaternium-22 (Merquat 280 Polymer from 3 Nalco(Lubrizol)) Glycerol (Glycerin 99.8% PF from Emery 3 Oleochemicals)Ammonium thiolactate (Ammonium thiolactate 58% 0.8 (50% ATL) from BrunoBock) Water qs 100

This process allows shaping of the lock, the lock obtained is durablycurled, and a gain in the volume of the lock is also observed.

The result is reported in FIG. 11.

Example 6: Process for Durably Curling the Hair Using a CompositionContaining at Least One Surfactant

A 1 g lock 20 cm long of moistened natural straight hair was treated inthe following manner.

The lock is shampooed and dried manually, and an aqueous composition inaccordance with the invention comprising at least one surfactant is thenapplied, with a minimum bath ratio of 2 to 1, uniformly along the lock.

The lock is then rolled up on and fixed to a curler.

The lock is then placed in a confined medium (such as cellophane film),and is then treated by the emission of microwaves via a householdmicrowave device (Samsung Combi CE 137nem; 2.5 GHz) for 5 minutes with apower of 450 W.

The end of the treatment is followed by rinsing or shampooing, dependingon the case.

The table that follows indicates the aqueous composition applied.

Amount in weight percentage (commercial Constituents product as is)Deceth-3 (Eumulgin BL 309 from Cognis 22 (BASF)) Deceth-5 (Eumulgin BL589 from Cognis 19.5 (BASF)) Cocamide MIPA (and) isopropanolamine 7.2(Rewomid V 3203 from Evonik Goldschmidt) Propylene glycol USP/EP (fromDow 15 Chemical) Hexylene glycol from Rhodia 1 Hydroxyethyl oleyldimonium chloride as a 3.33 30% aqueous solution Sodium metabisulfitefrom BASF 0.455 Erythorbic acid from Zhengzou Tuoyang 0.31Bioengineering Water qs 100

This process allows shaping of the lock (which is initially straight),the lock obtained is durably curled, and a gain in the volume of thelock is also observed.

The result is reported in FIG. 12.

Example 7: Process for Durably Curling the Hair Using a CompositionContaining at Least One Surfactant

A 1 g lock 20 cm long of moistened natural straight hair was treated ina manner similar to that of Example 1, except that the aqueouscomposition applied here is that detailed in the following table.

Amount in weight percentage (commercial Constituents product as is)Potato starch modified (Structure Solanace 0.3 from Akzo Nobel) Carbomer(Carbopol Ultrez 10 Polymer 0.38 from Lubrizol) Hydroxypropyl guar(Jaguar HP 105 from 0.25 Rhodia) Polyquaternium-4 (Ceresin Wax SP 254P0.3 from Strahl & Pitsch) Behentrimonium chloride (Varisoft BT 85 0.5(flaked) from Evonik Goldschmidt) Propylene glycol USP/EP (from Dow 2.5Chemical) Cyclopentasiloxane (and) dimethiconol 10.6 (Xiameter PMX-1501Fluid from Dow Corning) PEG/PPG-17/18 Dimethicone (Xiameter 0.5 OFX-5220Fluid from Dow Corning) Water qs 100

This process allows shaping of the lock, the lock obtained is durablycurled, and a gain in the volume of the lock is also observed.

The result is reported in FIG. 13.

1. A cosmetic process for treating keratin fibers, preferably the hair,comprising at least the steps consisting in: a) applying to said keratinfibers a composition containing at least one substance chosen from fattysubstances, non-silicone polymers and surfactants, b) applying amechanical tension to said keratin fibers, and c) exposing said keratinfibers under mechanical tension to microwaves, at a pressure rangingfrom 50 000 to 250 000 Pa, in the presence of at least one solvent invapor form on contact with the keratin fibers and without there beingcomplete drying of the keratin fibers throughout the entire exposure tothe microwaves, the solvent(s) in vapor form being entirely generated byevaporating at least one compound present, before emission of themicrowaves, on contact with the keratin fibers, step a) taking placeprior to step c).
 2. The process as claimed in claim 1, in which thepressure ranges from 75 000 to 150 000 Pa, and, preferably, the pressureis atmospheric pressure.
 3. The process as claimed in claim 1, in whichthe composition from step a) is free of alkali metal or alkaline-earthmetal hydroxides at a pH above 12 or of reducing agents for cleaving thedisulfide bonds.
 4. The process as claimed in claim 1, in which thecomposition from step a) contains at least one fatty substance.
 5. Theprocess as claimed in claim 1, in which said fatty substance(s) arechosen from C₆-C₁₆ hydrocarbons, hydrocarbons containing more than 16carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, plant oils oftriglyceride type, synthetic triglycerides, fluoro oils, fatty alcohols,non-salified fatty acids, fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters otherthan triglycerides and plant waxes, non-silicone waxes and silicones,and mixtures thereof.
 6. The process as claimed in claim 4, in which thefatty substance(s) are advantageously chosen from hydrocarbon waxes,plant waxes, solid fatty alcohols and solid esters of fatty acids and/orof fatty alcohols, or mixtures thereof.
 7. The process as claimed inclaim 1, in which the composition from step a) contains at least onenon-silicone polymer.
 8. The process as claimed in claim 1, in whichsaid non-silicone polymer(s) are thickening polymers chosen fromcellulose-based thickeners, especially hydroxyethylcellulose,hydroxypropylcellulose or carboxymethylcellulose, guar gum andderivatives thereof, especially hydroxypropyl guar, gums of microbialorigin, especially xanthan gum or scleroglucan gum, crosslinked acrylicacid or acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid homopolymers, and associativepolymers.
 9. The process as claimed in claim 7, in which saidnon-silicone polymer(s) are one or more fixing polymers chosen from:methyl vinyl ether/monoesterified maleic anhydride copolymers, acrylicacid/ethyl acrylate/N-tert-butylacrylamide terpolymers, copolymers ofmethacrylic acid and of methyl methacrylate, vinyl acetate/vinyltert-butylbenzoate/crotonic acid terpolymers, crotonic acid/vinylacetate/vinyl neododecanoate terpolymers, copolymers of methacrylic acidand of ethyl acrylate, copolymers of acrylamide and dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethylhalide, copolymers of acrylamide and ofmethacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, copolymers of acrylamideand of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, quaternizedor non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate ormethacrylate copolymers. dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate/vinylcaprolactam/vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, quaternizedvinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers,quaternary copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole,chitosans or salts thereof, polymers comprising units derived from: a)at least one monomer chosen from acrylamides and methacrylamidessubstituted on the nitrogen atom with an alkyl group, b) at least oneacidic comonomer comprising one or more reactive carboxylic groups, andc) at least one basic comonomer such as esters with primary, secondary,tertiary and quaternary amine substituents of acrylic and methacrylicacids and the product of quaternization of dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate with dimethyl or diethyl sulfate, methylmethacrylate/methyl dimethylcarboxymethylammonioethyl methacrylatecopolymers, polyalkyloxazolines, vinyl acetate homopolymers, vinylacetate copolymers, nonionic acrylic ester homopolymers and copolymers,copolymers of acrylonitrile and of a nonionic monomer, styrenehomopolymers and copolymers, polyamides, vinyllactam homopolymers, suchas vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers, polyvinylcaprolactam, and vinyllactamcopolymers such as poly(vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate) copolymers. 10.The process as claimed in claim 7, in which said non-silicone polymer(s)are one or more conditioning polymers chosen from: cyclopolymers ofalkyldiallylamine or dialkyldiallylammonium salts, quaternary diammoniumpolymers, and cationic polysaccharides, especially cationic cellulosesand galactomannan gums.
 11. The process as claimed in claim 1, in whichthe composition from step a) contains at least one surfactant.
 12. Theprocess as claimed in claim 11, in which said surfactant(s) are chosenfrom nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants andamphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.
 13. The process as claimed inclaim 1, in which the composition from step a) is an aqueouscomposition, preferably comprising from 20% to 99.9% by weight of waterrelative to the total weight of said composition.
 14. The process asclaimed in claim 1, in which step a) is prior to step b).
 15. Theprocess as claimed in claim 1, in which step b) is performed by applyingat least one torsion, traction or compression constraint on the keratinmaterials.
 16. The process as claimed in claim 1, in which the durationof step c) ranges from 1 second to 60 minutes, preferably from 1 secondto 30 minutes, better still from 30 seconds to 20 minutes and moreparticularly from 3 to 15 minutes.
 17. The process as claimed in claim1, in which the solvents used comprise water, and, more preferentially,the solvent used is water.
 18. The process as claimed in claim 1,comprising at least one additional pretreatment step d) and/or oneadditional post-treatment step e), these steps consisting in performingon the keratin materials at least one standard treatment chosen fromoxidation dyeing, direct dyeing, bleaching, permanent reshaping based onone or more reducing agents, for example thiol reducing agents, or basedon one or more alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal hydroxides, a caretreatment, a mask and/or a shampoo.